Changes on boot molding advice

[Query]

I recently reviewed the material I placed on my boot modification website at

  http://mgrunes.com/boots/boots.html

Some of the info might be out of date.

There seems to be a constant emphasis in manufacturing on finding faster and cheaper ways to make things. I don't know how boot making may have changed, in terms of materials and techniques, since I was told that almost any leather boot or shoe can be heat molded at around 185 degrees Fahrenheit, and since I was told that certain oils and moisture helps. Maybe that advice was never completely correct, since there are other hidden materials, even in a leather shoe or boot.

Some time ago, I changed that to 180 degrees, because that was what Graf said in 2015. (Note however that Jackson said that at least one model boot had to be heat molded at 260 degrees. I didn't have a hair drier or heat gun that could reach that temperature, and gave up, after trying very hard to make do with what I had. BTW, don't use any type of home oven, because their temperature is too poorly controlled and calibrated.) And I probably should have said only to heat mold sitting down without body weight, because Graf said you should.

But there may have been other manufacturing changes. E.g., Edea has said that putting their boots (which have synthetic uppers) in any oven would destroy them, and that only a carefully trained individual should do it, because the edge between making it pliable enough to mold, and completely destroying the boot, is very fine. Also, some parts of Edea boots may not be able to take much heat.

So maybe don't assume that any leather shoe or boot, let alone other shoes and boots, can safely be heat molded, or that you should apply oil to the outside and moisture to the inside. Ask the manufacturer about the specific model, and the specific year and perhaps month it was made.

If you choose to heat mold or apply oil and moisture, even if the manufacturer says no, do so conservatively, knowing that you are taking a risk, and might destroy the shoe or boot. So, moisten and heat each specific spot you wish to mold, not to a specific temperature (though if the manufacturer did specify a temperature, an oven thermometer might be cautiously used to find a maximum, though some are poorly calibrated), but only hot enough to make it pliable, staying away from stitches and maybe away from glued edges. Then quickly tie the laces tightly onto your foot, sitting down, without putting your body weight on the foot, and let it cool. Then repeat for the next spot you wish to heat mold.

Also realize that many soles were probably never designed to heat mold. A few insoles are specifically designed to heat mold - but that doesn't mean the rest of the sole is. If you have such an insole, the conservative approach would be to heat only the insole, until it is pliable, put it into the boot, put your foot in and quickly tie it tightly, and let it cool. But in that case you possibly do want to apply body weight from standing on one foot, so the foot will balance correctly in one foot glides, at least for figure skating - and let it cool. You should already have been wearing the other boot, so that part of balance is correct too. If you don't have a rubber floor panel to stand on (or for easier balance even if you do), and the blades are attached, use blade covers so you don't damage your floor, and to improve balance. Make sure there is something to hold onto if needed so you don't fall.

I'm sure some people will disagree with even this more conservative advice. Any suggestions?