One of my next projects is to make a new top cover and dressing cover for my IE (similar to yours, adjusted for my older motor mount that has a vertical vacuum hose attachment). I have the aluminum dressing cover, but the top cover on the older machine does not extend far enough to allow attachment, so I have to pick up the dressing cover and set it in place each time I dress the wheel.

Kaitsu--What type of filament did you use for yours? Any secrets to share? Thanks!

Just like previously, you need to rename stl files.

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Thanks for the clarification

Quote from: marc on August 23, 2026, 11:21:38 AMhttps://blademaster.com/products/portable-exhaust-attachment?srsltid=AfmBOopr0ZIDgydxo7POclhosgHKPmRVH93-P5J8DW3yMhyAwnffBEmZ

Making this cover from plastic may not be a good idea. If it is 3D-printed, I would at least recommend using a flame-retardant filament. Machines with large grinding wheels can produce a fairly intense stream of sparks.

I have printed a vacuum-hose adapter for my Incredible Edger, and it occasionally starts to smoulder when I remove material aggressively. The airflow through the adapter makes the situation worse — you are blowing air onto a fire. Fortunately, the smell of hot or burning plastic usually provides an early warning, but it is still a potential fire hazard.

However, I have not experienced any problems with the printed cover located above the IE grinding wheel or dressing cover. Overall, the printed covers made significant improvement both dust extraction and the usability of the dressing cover. No more floppy aluminum dressing cover which does not fit well in to wheel cover.

I have designed and printed also new wheel cover with integrated vacuum suction nose to Blademaster 3" wheel machine and I haven't heard any smoulder issues from that.

Quote from: R45 on August 25, 2026, 02:12:04 AMHi Marc, how do you use this tool?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Z8sCri8wzA

Similar square comes typically with Incredible Edger. Or at least used to come. It does not have knife edge like in this video. Knife edge is more accurate than flat bar when its not making so much shadows. You need bright back light to see light leak between the square and blade.

Negative side of this tool is relatively short measuring distance, which increases measuring uncertainly. Magnetic BAT gauges work like a magnifier, but they also magnify errors of the tool it selves.

I use square for all blade types, except Gold Seal Revolution. Other side honed blades and aluminum chassis blades are OK. 

Quote from: R45 on August 25, 2026, 02:12:04 AM... how do you use this tool?

It's basically a square; in particular, a small high-precision adjustable machinist's square.  In the US, it's commonly referred to as a diemaker's square.  Works best on traditional blades with planar parallel sides.  Difficult to use, or doesn't work, on some blade geometries.

R45
Alors si tu connais pas :
C'est que tu débutes, et que tu fais une bêtise de te fabriquer cette pièce.
Cet outil que je te montre en photo fait partie de la base d'un bon affûtage.
Regarde toute les belles vidéos de kaitsu ( tu les trouveras facilement sur youtube) et tu comprendra vite comment ça fonctionne.
Mais te casses pas la tête, achète cela

Mon message n'a pas été envoyé !!
Je voulais donc dire que ce post était  une très bonne idée de ta part kaitsu,

Je viens de découvrir cette option de blademaster et que c'était l'endroit pour la partager, sachant que c'est la machine la plus populaire.
Peut être pourrait on partager un plan de cela.
Je suis en train de me le fabriquer en acier.

Hi Marc, how do you use this tool?