The Pro-filer isn't so hard to use!
Record the profile, taking special note of the sweet spot, if you haven't already. Feel for edge sharpness and alignmnet by drawing your finger lightly across the blade edges. If the edge tip has been pushed to the inside or outside, just push it vertical with your flat stone, and you are probably done.
Otherwise continue:
If you have both coarse and fine grain stones, use the coarse stone, because it is faster and easier. The blades should fit in the Pro-filer snugly - even stick a little. If not, add equal layers of tape (I use thin, slippery scotch transparent tape) to each side, to make sharpening consistent. Cut tape away in the center notch, so you can turn the stone after every sharpening.
Take a slow stroke with the profiler - I prefer to hold it with the blade up. See if the grind isn't centered, add layer(s) of tape, resting on at the base of the stone, inside the gap, so it sticks to the gap.
Take a few more slow strokes, from the toe pick to the back. Reverse the Pro-Filer orientation, and take a few more stow strokes, from back to pick, but don't ride over the toe pick, unless you want to trim it.
Turn the stone a little.
Test for sharpness and edge alignment again. That's it, if it is already somewhat sharp. A few minutes at most. If not sharp yet, repeat until done.
No steel filings or abrasive dust will come off, or stick to the stone or blade, unlike Kaitsu's 3D printed sharpener using sandpaper - because you mostly reshape rather than grind away steel.
With the fine grain stone, you also need to push the (foil) edge vertical, perhaps with the flat stone. But as I suggested, skip that stone for now - most skaters don't like ultra-sharp edges anyway.