Sewing a plus size skating dress

[Meli]

I've been browsing skating dress patterns and they don't come in plus sizes (that I've seen, anyway.)

I think I can tweak a pattern to get what I need, but I thought I'd check to see if anyone has gone this route, and what patterns they used.  I'm sure some patterns work better than others.  I'm not a newbie when it comes to sewing, but I really don't want to draft a full pattern from scratch.

Any tips and tricks would be appreciated too!

[aussieskater]

How large a size is needed?  Jalie patterns are great - they have a nice range of styles and they're sized up to fit a 42 inch bust/36 inch waist/45 inch hip (107/91/114 cm).  Because all the sizes are on the same sheet and nested, it's pretty easy to grade up a couple of sizes further if needed.

[Meli]

How large a size is needed?  Jalie patterns are great - they have a nice range of styles and they're sized up to fit a 42 inch bust/36 inch waist/45 inch hip (107/91/114 cm).  Because all the sizes are on the same sheet and nested, it's pretty easy to grade up a couple of sizes further if needed.

I'm rather on the busty side, so I'm a bit beyond Jalie, but if the sizes are all in the same sheet, I probably would stand a better shot at the pattern alteration.

[CaraSkates]

Kwik Sew has some good basic skating patterns - I believe they all go up to XL which is a 43-45" bust, 35-37" waist, 45-47" hip. Slightly bigger than Jalie and I have found Kwik Sew to fit better when you are at the top of the size range, not the bottom. They also come all on the same pattern and nested so it is easier to adjust if needed. I also think Kwik Sew has better instructions for beginners - but Jalie has more options and designs. Kwik Sew also has more coverage in the panty than Jalie. I have made dresses from both companies and like both of them but I do think it is easier to start with Kwik Sew and then move to Jalie.

[FigureSpins]

Kwik Sew patterns are easier and more simplistic, but the fit and construction techniques aren't as good as Jalie.  Whatever settings KW is using on their dressmaker dummies, they're not replicating an adult woman.  I really think they take their flat-chested/flat-bottomed kiddie patterns and just upsize them without taking bustlines and hips into consideration.  I've made skating pants/dresses using KW patterns and they all required extensive pattern changes to make them fit a curvy body.  Just mho and experience.  I'm very good at sewing (wedding gowns, skating dresses, special occasion dresses) and I was very disappointed that there wasn't a single dart on any of their patterns.  (The darts were needed to fit the bustline and hips properly)

[rachelplotkin]

Personally I don't find the idea of a leotard based dress flattering for many body types.  If you can find a dress pattern you like it would be far easier to adapt that for a skating dress rather than the other way around.  You can make a pair of matching panties or shorts to wear under the dress for coverage.  The bonus is that going to the bathroom doesn't involve having to undress:)

[Isk8NYC]

Actually, the leotard-based dresses are far more comfortable than separate dress-and-pant sets.  There's no uncomfortable/distracting twisting, ride-ups or wardrobe failures, plus the leotard itself provides some often-needed support for heavier skaters.  A snap-set crotch solves the toiletry concerns if they're that pressing.  (I've never had a problem with slipping a leotard down to do my business, lol.  It's the TIGHTS that are the issue, imo.)

The first skating dress I ever made was a traditional jumper-style, which I wore over cheerleader panties at first, then a bodysuit later on.  The jumper was made of very-heavy velvet.  I did my first spin, the skirt floated up under my arms and got stuck/twisted.  It was very uncomfortable and looked awful.  Having to tug it back into place throughout the program was distracting for everyone.



I think you're mistaking "leotard based" for a traditional freeskate dress with an inset skirt.  There are a number of leotard-dress styles that can be much more flattering to skaters of any size.  The trick is to understand what looks good on your body.

This is a traditional leotard-style dress:



A longer skirt, color and stoning can make a dress appear more flattering:



An empire-waist eliminates the skin-tight fit and can enhance the performance:



Some dresses can be structured so that an "overdress" floats on top of the bodysuit (usually referred to as an "attached brief") to smooth out the body line:



I'm not contradicting you, I'm just saying that it's not necessary to rule out a very functional style when there's a lot of workable alternatives within the basic style.

[rachelplotkin]

I guess to each their own.  I made a velvet dress (complete with plenty of bling) and wore it for a skating exhibition without any problems.  I carry all of my weight in the front and felt the typical one piece skating dresses looked awful on me.  Empire waist can be flattering for many but definitely not for me.  But honestly one of the biggest problems is not being able to try stuff on before purchasing. The idea of an "overdress" is interesting one though and worth giving consideration to. 

[Isk8NYC]

I agree - I hate not being able to try things on first.

[Meli]

I wish I could try stuff on or buy off the rack, but such is life.  I've been sewing for a long time (grandma was a seamstress for many years, and learning was not optional!) so I've gotten pretty good about knowing which silhouttes work for the most part.  As the panty is probably going to be the tricky bit, I'll just pick up some cheap fabric and do a mock up for fit.  Heck, I probably have something in the stash that would work.

Now if only I could figure out how to contain the glitter...

[xoxo_tw]

Cut and Spread is any easy technic.

On your pattern that is too small for you... look up the waist, bust,  hip and more important measurements...   write them down.

Then on your body get the same measurments.  Figure out the difference.

On the pattern,   Slice it at :  Center Front,   Center Back,   Side Seams,   then at the slices evenly distribute the amount you needed to add.

To make it better,  you can SLice the pattern up at the Princess lines too... 

If you working with stretchy fabric... might be enough to slice at Center Front and Back...