Woofoo,

I was studying a bit side honed Revolution blades middle section and I still have some concerns about its reliability as a datum. https://youtu.be/al1ngJdY-V4

I do have also some question related to Revoltion-ary skate carrier and middle section of the blade, but I need to study it a bit more further functionality of this Revoltion-ary carrier. So I will come back to that in another post. 

Kaitsu,

Please forgive my lousiness of hand drawing and the sloppiness of positioning the blades on the holder.

Actually, you can place the middle clamp more rear on the blade and let it contact more the rear flat area and that area is more big enough to let the clamp securely clamp the blade. (Attachment 1 and 2 would roughly show that area, I hope...) One of the reason Mr. Broadbent use the design of the retractable locator pins I think is to make sure these areas is in perpendicular position to the clamp as possible. No matter you put the clamp on the middle or the rear, to my opinion, it is secure enough.

For the size of the grinding stone, I'm still thinking about it. The locator pin is very important, not only the perpendicular position for the clamp but also for the measurement of the Dial indicator. Since it is the pin stand in the way, it seems the size restriction is a necessity of evil, isn't it? Actually, the size restriction is about 2-9/16 something. By the way, place the blades on the holder after the pin is up is for illustrative purpose. we actually put the blade on first and move it backward to let the pin can come up easily.

About re-design, I would come to you later if I have any idea.

Regards.

Woofoo

Quote from: Woofoo on March 15, 2026, 11:08:50 PMThe shaded area in the figure is flat.

Woofoo,
I just noticed that the central clamping point of the carrier barely touches the shaded area if it is in the middle of blade U-shape. Any comments to this?

Based on the user manual, page 1, locator pin system collides to the spindle cartridge if wheel smaller than 2½". Any comments to this?

Is there something what you would change, if you would re-design this carriage?

Kaitsu,

Thanks !!!

This is a right direction, I think I can find something suitable for the job on this web site. At least I can use least modifying work to make the tool work.

Regards.

Quote from: Woofoo on March 16, 2026, 05:05:04 AMKaitsu,
Can you tell me what kind of tool(socket wrench?) you use to dismantle the lock nut of the cartridge of the I.E.?
Preferable with the photos.

Unfortunately I could not find my order details anymore, but I am quite confident that it was same type of socket behind this link. 20mm/24mm Motorcycles Scooter Clutch Tool Lock Nut Removal Spanner Wrench Socket
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EuDPnuY

I have ordered few different sockets and none of them has fit to this locking nut. If someone knows what is the correct socket type, please let us know. Linked socket requires machining because pins are too thick. I cannot remember anymore if I used just file or milling machine to make pins thinner. This is anyhow best option I have found so far. When I replaced bearings, I didn't have this socket. In that time I used quick & dirty solution. I did buy 3/4" socket (12 point version) which I modified with angle grinder.

Quote from: Woofoo on March 15, 2026, 11:08:50 PMKaitsu,

Here is the illustration of the flat area of the blade clamp to the Holder.

The shaded area in the figure is flat.

Thanx. I will try to check this next time I get GS Rev. In to my hands. Currently I have just parallel P99.

Kaitsu,

Can you tell me what kind of tool(socket wrench?) you use to dismantle the lock nut of the cartridge of the I.E.?

Preferable with the photos.

Regards.

Kaitsu,

Here is the illustration of the flat area of the blade clamp to the Holder.

The shaded area in the figure is flat.

I thought this was an intriguing challenge.  Here's one solution I've come up with that works fairly well.  It mimics the fingertip test, but spares the skin off your fingertips.

NB:  Make sure edges are clean (in particular, free of lubricants) and dry before testing.

As a test sample, use a paper strip ~1 cm wide X ~12 cm long.  The paper should be of intermediate grade, such as used in a notepad or for a printer.  Not too low grade, with loose fibers.  But not too hard and smooth either.  Play around with different types of paper.  As shown in the photo, grasp the left end of the strip between the thumb and forefinger of your left hand.  Similarly, grasp the right end of the strip between the thumb and forefinger of your right hand.  The skate is secured with the blade facing up. You can sit and clamp it between your thighs, or use a custom holder.

Pull the strip taut against a single edge.  Now pull the strip back and forth (left to right and right to left) for several one-way strokes.  You have ~8 cm of travel over the strip per one-way stroke. Test the inside and outside edges separately. 

With a sharp edge, you will feel resistance as you pull the strip across the edge.  At the end of several one-way strokes (I use four one-way strokes), you will find noticeable paper fibers deposited in the hollow along the edge.  Clean off the paper fibers before switching between inside and outside edges.  With a dull edge, the paper will slide over the edge with little resistance, and there will be no or few fibers deposited.  You will need to develop a feel for how taut to pull the strip, how to angle the strip against the edge, how hard to press the strip against the edge, and how quickly to pull the strip.  But the fingertip test requires similar personal touches too.

Unfortunately Parabolic and side honed blades are what they are. Honing's at the blade are very uneven so I have not used them as datum. See attached picture.

I use stanchions as a datum + I verify that blades are straight with DIN 874 Knife straight edge. If blade is not straight, I will try to straighten them as good as possible.

Since IE figure skate carrier clamps the blade from the stanchions, I have developed method to use stanchions as a measurement datum even the skate is in the holder. When I use precision square, I can check evenness only from two positions and one side of the blade. Rest is in hands of God.

Long time a go there was special version of H.D.I gauge for side honed blades. It had spring loaded pins which were supposed to center the tool even the blade does have side honing and/or taper shape. This tool was one of the most expensive sharpening related decor item I have ever purchased.