Maybe from cnc machine
[/quote]

C'est une des pièces les plus dures à trouver !
Mais tu seras confronté à d'autres problèmes, encore !!
Si tu remontes les post, j'ai fait avec une toupie à bois.
Une fois que tu auras trouvé ça, faudra que tu fasse travailler l'acier de l'axe pour y mettre la meule....
Et après...et après.
Mais rien n'est impossible vu ce que tu as déjà fait sur ta première , tu y arriveras...avec du temps ( moins que mon temps car cela fait 3 ans que j'y pense)!
Je suis bien content moi aussi de trouver quelqu'un de motivé !
Tu fais parti de mes copains du how to make homemade

oh now I see .
Great job Marc.
congratulations 

You motivated me to do mine.
I just need to find a way to mount the 3' wheel or a ready cartridge spindle .
Maybe from cnc machine

Quote from: Kaitsu on February 02, 2025, 08:21:28 AMIts nice to see new active guy here in the forum.

I was also happy to hear that you double check edges evenness after the sharpening (directly from the blade). Even your squareness check in the skate holder would include some deviations, you will notice it later. Only problem is that you might need to grind skates several times before edges are perfectly level.

What comes to the scratches and other damages on the aluminum chassis, doesn't them exist also when you remove skate from the holder? Or is the trick that you use stanchions when skate in not in the skate holder?

I would recommend to use same type in square than what I use. "The magic" in my square is knife edge. It does not create shadows like your, which ruler part is probably ~1mm thick. Thinner the contact area is, easier to see the light leak. You can demonstrate by putting you square rules flat part against the blade stanchion. See how much you see light leak. After this start to tilting you ruler until only the ruler edge contacts (45 degrees). My assumption is that first stanchion looks 100% straight but, when only the corner contacts you start to see some light leak. This is the reason why knife edge rulers are used in the quality controls.

In the normal Gold Seals I use stanchions to verify edges evenness. In the beginning the problem was that stanchions were covered by skate holder which did mean that I need to take skate out from the skate holder to be able to measure edges evenness. When you put skate back to holder, it will never position similarly as last time.

I have been an active reader for some time, unfortunately I do not have enough knowledge to participate 

yes I am looking for one like you have, but I can't find it anywhere. I type "bevel square edges adjustable" and I don't see it anywhere in Europe at a reasonable price.

I just noticed today that my ruler is not super accurate, I checked it using a non adjustable bevel square and it has clearance.(small deviation)

yes, I know that I can't take the skate off holder while sharpening to check but
as you write, sometimes it is difficult to do it because the stanchions are covered.

-re-installation changes evenness
-when I have to dress the wheel again it might change evenness ( especially when I have to turn the Diamond)

Quote from: Query on February 02, 2025, 01:00:39 PMThe only thing this has to do skating is that a lot of skating equipment is produced in the U.S. or Canada. E.g., I will likely buy Jackson Skates, made in Canada. Tariffs could make them more expensive.

Jackson is a Canadian company, but most of their boots are not made in Canada.  Even the Supreme 5362, one of their highest-end stock boots, that I bought late 2022 was marked "Made in China".  My previous pair of Jackson Elites, purchased late 2014, had no country of origin marked on them. Like many companies, they use a variety of contract manufacturers from all over.  I've never bought Ultima blades, so I have no idea where they are made.

I don't know how tariffs will be applied with today's complicated global corporations and global supply chains.  We shall see.

voici comment je taille ma meule
c'est un peu comme la:  ez sharpening


https://youtube.com/shorts/13VM9xPazpM?feature=share

https://www.bbc.com/news/live/cqjvg82lg4yt

says U.S. president Trump is imposing tariffs (taxes) on imported Canadian and Mexican goods, and some other countries. And Trudeau says Canada will impose tariffs on imported U.S. goods, urges Canadians to "Buy Canadian". Other countries may impose tariffs on U.S. goods too.

The only thing this has to do skating is that a lot of skating equipment is produced in the U.S. or Canada. E.g., I will likely buy Jackson Skates, made in Canada. Tariffs could make them more expensive.

Does anyone know if it affects Alaskans who order goods shipped via truck from the U.S. through Canada?

Edit: A few U.S. states import hydro-electric power from Canada. If that raised the price of electricity in those states, it could impact some skating rinks.

Gold Seal revolution is the much more trickier case. This blade designer only target must have been to make them visually pretty. Only flat area is in the behind the toe picks. Here is one method what JW recommends. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=69tWd_K5iBI

I have tried it and I didn't feel it reliable. When square was indicating edges to be even (in the back) magnetic BAT gauge did indicate that edges are heavily uneven. I would recommend using similar BAT gauge than what Paramount introduces in their video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JjVpbt8ePmc&t=334s

Note that in Gold Seal revolutions it might not be smart to use skate holder which has wide contact area. Concave blade and flat counter face if not good combination. Hockey skate holder with narrow contact areas is much better for them.

Its nice to see new active guy here in the forum.

I was also happy to hear that you double check edges evenness after the sharpening (directly from the blade). Even your squareness check in the skate holder would include some deviations, you will notice it later. Only problem is that you might need to grind skates several times before edges are perfectly level.

What comes to the scratches and other damages on the aluminum chassis, doesn't them exist also when you remove skate from the holder? Or is the trick that you use stanchions when skate in not in the skate holder?

I would recommend to use same type in square than what I use. "The magic" in my square is knife edge. It does not create shadows like your, which ruler part is probably ~1mm thick. Thinner the contact area is, easier to see the light leak. You can demonstrate by putting you square rules flat part against the blade stanchion. See how much you see light leak. After this start to tilting you ruler until only the ruler edge contacts (45 degrees). My assumption is that first stanchion looks 100% straight but, when only the corner contacts you start to see some light leak. This is the reason why knife edge rulers are used in the quality controls.

In the normal Gold Seals I use stanchions to verify edges evenness. In the beginning the problem was that stanchions were covered by skate holder which did mean that I need to take skate out from the skate holder to be able to measure edges evenness. When you put skate back to holder, it will never position similarly as last time. Try to check this with your machine with any blade. After you have finished the blade, remove it from the holder and paint the blade with marker. Put it back and make one grinding pass. If all marker traces are gone and edges are still even, you was a lucky one. Tip of the day...try to find some way to be able to use stanchions for measurement even skate would be in the skate holder.

Quote from: Kaitsu on February 01, 2025, 01:01:55 PMGold Seal revolutions real nightmare.
   

How to put them on the holder correctly?
measure edges like regular gold seal's?

Kaitsu thank you very much for your reply
Yes ,You are right that we do not know how well the ruler end is made to be square.

but I think it's not a bad method at all am I right ?
 3beltwesty in his video says that mk phantom blades, I think also Gold seal in the place where we put them on the holder are parallel so assuming they sit well on it, we can check like that. of course after removing from the holder I check again.

I often have very damaged matrixes with many scratches on the chassis, then there is a problem with checking as you show but I agree that method You showed is the best .