Make-your-own 3" wheel sharpening machine

[Kaitsu]

New tread opened to discuss this topic at own thread.

Adminstrator/moderator
Could you kindly move post #63 - #67 from https://skatingforums.com/index.php?topic=8687.50 to this thread?
Thank you!

[marc]

thank you katsu for your serious help to improve skate sharpening around the world.
I didn't think about creating this new topic, because it was also a bit about spare parts and improving IE.
I don't know if this would be of interest to many people, but I think it's still doable for sharpeners who have an 8" machine and who like precision and I know there are a few of us on the skating forum.
I have had many ideas for a long time to do this but I really want to make this sharpener

[marc]

Here are some of my ideas:
a motor with pulley (approximately 75 mm), O-ring (green in the photo) as a belt, a 3" grinding wheel axis with a pulley (approximately 20mm), a table sliding lengthwise (like woodworking machines , and other slides in the perpendicular direction.
I would think about keeping a skate holder (blademaster or other) that I would put on the entire sliding system.
and I would also have imagined the same dressing system for the blademaster grinding wheel..

[marc]

or rather this surfacing plate in smaller size

[marc]

I think this rail set would be the best for 200€

[Query]

I can't help with construction ideas, as I have neither engineering training nor machine shop experience.

But AFAICT, people who try to do as good a job as possible spend a lot of time centering the wheel on the blade (at both ends, and in the middle, if possible), to try to make the edges of equal length.

Is it practical to add a mechanism that speeds that up, or at least measures whether they are centered?

Also, at least one figure skating blade holder is designed to temporally straighten the blade (if it is warped). I guess they cost more, but they seem like a good idea, because warped blades are hard to sharpen well - if you center the wheel on the blade at both ends, it will be off center in the middle. (I'm not sure if there are any that can hold hockey blades too - which matters, because hockey blades are somewhat frequently warped due to collisions with other blades.)

Many sharpening machines include an extra fixture that straightens blade permanently, by bending it a little in the opposite direction. Blades skate better (with substantially less friction) if they are straight. Though I was told it is risky, and needs to be discussed with the skater - the tech I discussed it with said that the blade sometimes breaks when the warp is over about 1 mm. (In fact, when new blades were sent to him warped from the HD Sports factory, he returned them, at which point HD Sports sent them to a less picky dealer.)

[Kaitsu]

You have started your designing from linear guide rails, just like me. When I have started to think about how to make spindle cartridge where to mount wheel, things get complicated. What kind of belt I should use, how to get pulley wheels with correct diameters, how arrange belt tightening system? How to make 2 point height adjustment system for skate carrier? How to build diamond dressing system?

In this stage of my plans, motivation has typically dropped close to zero. I could make drawing for all these individual components, but ordering machining and heat treatment etc. would be very costly for single items. Most likely there is also need to tune design after first prototype, which increases costs dramatically. Building only one machine costs possibly more that buying new IE or BRPD1.

By the way...
If you are considering to use belt pulley system, typically electrical motor speed is increased by using larger pulley wheel in motor end that in spindle shaft. If so, this means that your electrical motor needs to have enough high torque. If your bicycle has large gear in pedals and small gear in back wheel, its heavy for cyclist. Same principle applies to sharpening machine.

[Query]

Marc, what tool do you sharpen with now?

[marc]

Quel type de courroie dois-je utiliser

I think that those who have an IE should try putting an O-ring in place of the original belt because I have a friend who has an HSS drill/countermill sharpener and who does with that.
And as it is quite elastic I think there is less need to tighten the original belt.

comment obtenir des roues de poulie avec des diamètres corrects,

This is a bit complicated, I need to reread the exchanges on the IE, how many revolutions should the wheel holder rotate?

Comment fabriquer un système de réglage de la hauteur à 2 points pour un porte-patin

I will base myself on the blademaster trolley holder that I already have and which I would place on a sliding table lengthwise and widthwise (as in the previous photos)

Comment construire un système de dressage au diamant ?

J'essaierais de m'aider du systéme blademaster qui serait je pense le lus simple

Construire une seule machine coûte peut-être plus cher que d'acheter un nouvel IE ou BRPD1.

yes but how much does the IE cost (4500e!!,,) and where can we find it?
When the blademaster is even more expensive I think (6500€!!??) right?

Si vous envisagez d'utiliser un système de poulie à courroie, la vitesse du moteur électrique est généralement augmentée en utilisant une poulie plus grande à l'extrémité du moteur que dans l'arbre de broche.

yes, I understood, and I just did some calculations on that. and if I could use my current blademaster to be able to do a few things that would be great! But that would mean putting a pulley just smaller than 3" on the spindle shaft and maybe changing the original motor with a variator to find the right rotation

Marc, avec quel outil aiguises-tu maintenant ?

I have been sharpening since I started (2 1/2 years) with an 8" Blademaster and I can sharpen very well. I would just like to try a 3" at a lower cost!

[marc]

À ce stade de mes plans, la motivation est généralement tombée à près de zéro.

I don't know if I'm right to persist in trying to do this. I pass and I will have sleepless nights but I cannot spend 4500€ on such a machine! (it would be mission impossible to find this used machine even if I would travel to southern Europe).

I think deep down that it is achievable with supplies that can be found here or there...Also, it is very similar to me not to bother making a 3", and to continue with an 8 "...the future will tell

[Qsior]

You have started your designing from linear guide rails, just like me. When I have started to think about how to make spindle cartridge where to mount wheel, things get complicated. What kind of belt I should use, how to get pulley wheels with correct diameters, how arrange belt tightening system? How to make 2 point height adjustment system for skate carrier? How to build diamond dressing system?

In this stage of my plans, motivation has typically dropped close to zero. I could make drawing for all these individual components, but ordering machining and heat treatment etc. would be very costly for single items. Most likely there is also need to tune design after first prototype, which increases costs dramatically. Building only one machine costs possibly more that buying new IE or BRPD1.

By the way...
If you are considering to use belt pulley system, typically electrical motor speed is increased by using larger pulley wheel in motor end that in spindle shaft. If so, this means that your electrical motor needs to have enough high torque. If your bicycle has large gear in pedals and small gear in back wheel, its heavy for cyclist. Same principle applies to sharpening machine.

I have exactly the same thoughts.

I have been thinking about a 3" machine for a long time. I made an 8" machine with variable speed, I based it on the machine I have, blademaster sp850.
It allows me to use wheels almost to the end.
Unfortunately, making a machine like IE will be very difficult. Getting, making parts. Something like Blademster would be easier.

Kaitsu , Many Thanks for the photos BRPD1

[marc]

I have exactly the same thoughts.

I have been thinking about a 3" machine for a long time. I made an 8" machine with variable speed, I based it on the machine I have, blademaster sp850.
It allows me to use wheels almost to the end.
Unfortunately, making a machine like IE will be very difficult. Getting, making parts. Something like Blademster would be easier.

Kaitsu , Many Thanks for the photos BRPD1

Non, je pense que c'est vraiment réalisable pour tout le monde.
Depuis 1 mois je pense que à cela.
Il faut essayer de trouver et d'assembler des machines existantes:
Rail montrés ci dessus en photos,
Et j'aurais trouvé la machine qui irait le mieux, que je partagerai dans le prochain message.

[marc]

Voici le modèle de machine que je voudrais modifier:
je mettais une meule que j'ai dèja de blademaster 3
je me servirais du porte foret pour y mettre le diamant...
je mettrais les rails que j'ai acheté en photos précedentes
par contre j'ai un probleme c'est pour changer le moteur ...
Si vous pouvier m'aider à trouver cela...


https://i.pinimg.com/736x/32/b5/cf/32b5cf8b9948e19916d991cff4873d41.jpg

[marc]

https://photos.google.com/u/0/photo/AF1QipNrcaFEVK6FPqeitNukZjFgOTR_bz3HJ3D3PDJ7

Voici l'avancement de ma future machine à affuter 3"

prochaine étape:
rail de guidage linéaire et montage d'un moteur 400w avec un arbre porte meule.

mery christmas