Learn to Sew Tips and Planned Projects

[Isk8NYC]

At this time of the year, people begin to think about learning to sew in order to make skating outfits.



This was a timely email from Simplicity:

Learn To Sew pattern collection at Simplicity.com, specially designed and written just for beginners. User-friendly instructions in each pattern teach the basics from start to finish, including:

1. Choosing the Correct Pattern Size

2. List of Materials Needed

3. Fabric and Pattern Prep

4. Proper Layout, Cutting and Marking Techniques

5. Construction

6. Finishing





Armed with the right pattern, here are some useful tips to make the teaching/learning process go smoothly:

· Stick with fabrics that are easy to handle, like cotton, denim, and woven fabrics with a smooth finish and tight weave.

· Plaids, stripes and patterns that need to be matched can be tricky; a solid or overall print will let you concentrate just on sewing.

· Start with a simple project, and then build on your skill set with each subsequent project. · Make sure you have all your supplies ready to go – fabric, thread, notions, trims, equipment.

Personally, the sizing of Simplicity patterns never work out right for me, I have to make too many changes to get them to fit and their suggested fabric lengths and layouts are wasteful - I end up with lots of fabric left over. I prefer Vogue/McCall's patterns for those reasons, but many others have said that the Kwik-Sew patterns work well for skating clothes.



What are the other brands of skating patterns?





I have some beautiful peridot-green sparkly satin fabric that I want to use for a skating dress, but I can't find any lycra to match. I bought some dye and plain white lycra, so I'm going to attempt to replicate the color and DIY. I know it'll cost just as much as buying a premade dress, but I feel up to the challenge.



I liked the Champion C9 sweats with the elastic hems that I bought at Target last year. I can't find them this year, so I have to shorten some other ones.



Anyone else have some projects planned for the season?

[Isk8NYC]

Quoted from the original thread on skatingforums.com:

Jalie is good as well, I haven't sewed one up in a few years though and can't remember how it's sized.

I'm planning a new dress, for my freestyle test. Plain gray with long sleeves and a bit longer skirt (cross between dance & freestyle). Nothing spectacular, going for comfort. I was going to make another pair of skating pants but ran out of time (and school started again).

I saw a while back some learn-to-sew videos on youtube. Some looked really good. Don't recall if any dealt with stretch fabrics but you have to start somewhere and woven is easy.

Jalie and Kwik-Sew are the top of the line--I like Jalie best given my sizing, although I always cut generously for my booty!!

I'm not crazy about the standard pattern-makers' skating dresses; however, for ice dance dresses, I do use Simplicity/Butterick/McCall's ballroom dance dress patterns and make a matching panty.

[Clarice]

I'm planning a new tango dress, inspired by some cool black and red embellished mesh I found.  I'm using Kwik Sew 3272 as a base pattern, combined with 2601 for a bodice overlay, and a dance skirt pattern from Action Fabrics and Trim.  The sketch looks good - we'll see how the dress comes out!  I haven't ordered the fabric yet, but will next week.  I just have to figure out the yardage for the fancy mesh - I only need it for the sleeves and the overlay.

[SillyAdultSkater]

Ohhh a sewing thread, this is gorgeous, we've long needed one.

I'm not sewing anything skating-related this year though.

What I do have, not sure if it's useful to anyone, are a few easy sewing projects and explanations. (The tights I'd not recommend for competitions, but for training, it works for me - tights are 30 euro around here, ouch!..) I've put them together on 1 page for easy reference:
http://cheapskate.uphero.com/

[jjane45]

What I do have, not sure if it's useful to anyone, are a few easy sewing projects and explanations. (The tights I'd not recommend for competitions, but for training, it works for me - tights are 30 euro around here, ouch!..) I've put them together on 1 page for easy reference:
http://cheapskate.uphero.com/

Wow great tips! I am not going as far as OTB tights, but I run out of boot covers way too fast from lunges and jump scratches. Time to dig out those stretchy fabrics on hand!

[FigureSpins]

Ah, but over-the-boot tights can be easily converted into footless tights if they get runs in them.

You just cut off the foot part evenly, then hem. 

[Sierra]

Ah, but over-the-boot tights can be easily converted into footless tights if they get runs in them.

You just cut off the foot part evenly, then hem. 

Can an amateur sewing person hem tights? Do I need elastic or anything, or will just pulling a thread around a couple of times work?

[SillyAdultSkater]

@ Sierra, hemming tights by hand is rather hard, I'd suggest using a serger or a tight zig-zag

[Sierra]

@ Sierra, hemming tights by hand is rather hard, I'd suggest using a serger or a tight zig-zag

I don't have any sort of machines just a small travel kit of thread, needle, and the thing that gets thread through the eye. I've successfully mended a rip on a clearance dress (the dress is skintight and it's held) and shortened bra straps and such, but of course tights are a whole different material.

[Isk8NYC]

It is tricky to hem by hand, but it's doable.  

I usually start by cutting off the foot then dabbing on Dritz FrayCheck on the edges. You can buy FrayCheck from sewing stores - it's like clear nail polish - it stops runs in knits.  A little goes a long way, you don't want to end up with hard, sharp edges.  Stretch the fabric slightly as you apply it.  (I had good luck putting a piece of shiny cardboard inside the leg so it stays stretched out.  Just make sure the cardboard doesn't stick.)

Once it dries completely, I usually use an overcast stitch to "darn" the edges - just stretch it widthwish as you overcast so that you don't bind the bottom and make it too narrow.  That's why she recommended using a serger or stretch stitch.  Then, you can roll or turn under the hem and pin in place before hemming it.  Don't forget to stretch it so that it has enough ease to fit over your foot.

[Isk8NYC]

Jalie has a number patterns for figure skating dresses and practicewear:

http://www.jalie.com/sports-apparel/figure-skating.html

Very nice designs.

[sarahspins]

Just an FYI for anyone considering making pants from Jalie #2215, I had to trim about 2" off each leg (1" off each pattern piece) to get them to fit snugly through the thighs to my knees, and also eliminate a little bit of the flare below the knee (which seemed excessive).  I haven't skated in them yet, but I expect they will be fine.  The skirt from the same pattern fits great as-is

[retired]

Try their new pant, # 3022.  They resemble an expensive LargeLabel brand and the legs are narrower but still, to my preference, a little flappy around the ankle but much better in hips and thighs.

[PinkLaces]

Thanks for all the links to the patterns.  My mother-in-law always says she is going to make skating dresses after she goes to one of DD's competitions and sees the price.  She finally committed to making my DD a dress in for her April ice show - DD has a feature where she will need a dress.  My MIL is a beautiful seamstress. She made my wedding dress, but is a little freaked out about making my DD a skating dress.

[miraclegro]

Here's a tip I'll bet no one's ever heard of.

My mom, who's an award winning seamstress from 7th grade....well, i asked her about a problem i had .   Here's the story:  I bought a gorgeous pair of leggings, exceptional quality, from a consignment store.  Waist a bit too big, and too much flare on bottom of leg.  So i took in the waist, put new elastic in, no prob.   But my darn New Home sewing machine wouldn't get that seam going.  Kept skipping badly!  I tried diff. settings (can't find my book!), bought a ball point needle, and finally asked mom for any other ideas? 

Get this?  Waxed paper.  Yep.  worked like a charm.  Laid that stuff in 3"  strips over where i was sewing and it grabbed like a charm.  I never understood this very well, but it saved me $50 on a new pair of UnderArmour and i'm HAPPY!   (btw, tore off waxed paper when done - lol)

[miraclegro]

I forgot to mention it was almost like a double-knit fabric.  Had just a bit of slinky ness to it. 

[isakswings]

I bought a new serger last week to help me make better skating attire. I've since made a couple of skating pants and a skating dress. I LOVE having a serger!!! Having one makes sewing so much easier. Now if only threading that darn lower looper was easier then it is. *sigh*

[Isk8NYC]

I learned a trick for that, maybe it was from skate@delaware, I'm not sure.

Cut the thread that's already in the lower bobbin and leave a long tail, then tie the new thread on and pull it through.  It threads through all the way to the needle.  You have to pull it up and cut the knot/old thread off, but a needle threader makes that a little easier. 

I also have a pair of really long tweezers - probably about 6-8" long.  They were my FIL's.  He sold sewing machines and supplies, so he had all this sewing stuff in his house.  They work great for getting at the lower parts of the serger.

Congrats!

[sarahspins]

I bought a new serger last week to help me make better skating attire. I've since made a couple of skating pants and a skating dress. I LOVE having a serger!!! Having one makes sewing so much easier. Now if only threading that darn lower looper was easier then it is. *sigh*

Go buy a serger threader   It helps.. I almost exclusively tie off and pull new thread through, but sometimes you have something break, or you find yourself having to re-thread the loopers, and a threader is helpful.

[Purple Sparkly]

I am making my freeskate dress for Adult Nationals.  The music is Gone With the Wind.  I skated to it a few years ago, so I had the dress, but I've lost enough weight since then that I need to make major alterations to it.  I took it apart and plan to use at least most of the pieces again, just cut out a new pattern and put them on top of my current pieces and trim the extra.  I used Jalie 2791, like the dark red one, but royal blue stretch velvet with a white underskirt.

I'd also like to make a dance dress with Jalie 2684 (I have the pattern).  I have some wine colored stretch velvet and matching stretch satin.  I thought I'd use the satin as a band on the top of the dress and the neck.  Obviously a longer skirt for dance, made out of the velvet or maybe a georgette or similar fabric if I can find one to make the skirt more flowy.

[Clarice]

Obviously a longer skirt for dance, made out of the velvet or maybe a georgette or similar fabric if I can find one to make the skirt more flowy.

I think a dance-length skirt out of velvet is going to look really heavy.  Consider doing a double layer of stretch mesh - a lot of commercial dresses are made that way.

[Kim to the Max]

Or a coordinating color of chiffon would work at that length. You could do a double layer if you feel it would be too sheer.

[sarahspins]

I think a dance-length skirt out of velvet is going to look really heavy.  Consider doing a double layer of stretch mesh - a lot of commercial dresses are made that way.

I agree.... anything more than a short box-skirt out of stretch velvet usually ends up being very heavy.  Glissinette is a nice alternative to stretch mesh... it's free and flowy and you can almost always match the color to the velvet.  I might still suggest two layers though.

[Purple Sparkly]

I think a dance-length skirt out of velvet is going to look really heavy.  Consider doing a double layer of stretch mesh - a lot of commercial dresses are made that way.

I thought that might be an issue also, but I think I saw someone with a velvet dance-length skirt... I could be making it up, though, it was a few years ago.  I'll look at the fabric again and see how heavy it is.  I think I'll take a small section of the fabric to the store with me and see if I can find something better.  I definitely think I'd do a double layer of anything thinner than the velvet, but the dark red might not be too much of an issue.

[Clarice]

Or a coordinating color of chiffon would work at that length. You could do a double layer if you feel it would be too sheer.

The only trouble with chiffon is that it doesn't stretch.  You'd have to cut it wider around the hips and allow for some gathering (make sure to add the length back at the bottom of the pattern piece so the skirt doesn't get too short).  For most adults, some kind of stretch fabric, like mesh or glissenette, will work better.