Sewing practice pants - tips and hints please :)

[isakswings]

Does anyone know of any good video tutorials on altering patterns? I have been making dd skating pants lately and I need to tweak the pattern to fit her tiny frame. She's in that inbetween stage. Kids patterns still fit, but she can also fit into a womans extra small. I'm currently using a kwik sew legging pattern. I've successfully made it to go over her heel but now I need to figure out how to loose the sagginess of the crotch area. They are wearable, but she would prefer a more snug fit. I've got a ton of black lycra(got a great deal on it... 3.10 a yard!), so I am sewing like a crazy woman.

[Isk8NYC]

I'm making lycra stretch pants for my DD's using Kwik-Sew 3455.  They wanted the length to come down over the heel of their skates - do you think I can just lengthen the pattern or do I have to angle the hem longer in the back?

http://www.kwiksew.com/Catalog/cat_detail.cfm?pid=3455&Cat=&Level=&QL=MissLeotards

[hopskipjump]

Dd's pants that go over the heel are not longer in the back.

[tazsk8s]

I made a unitard for a skater who wanted the pants to go over the heel.  I borrowed a pair of her practice pants that she wore that way just to see how they were cut.  The whole leg is just a couple inches longer (not just the back). 

Now that I know how to do it, I'm going to try making myself a pair of pants like that.  I've been too busy sewing for others (to the point that I've informed the coaches I sew for that I'm taking an "indefinite break" after I finish the dress I'm currently working on - getting way too burned out) and its' been eons since I've made anything for ME. 

[sarahspins]

The legs are just made longer (I add an extra 6" to my pattern, which makes them 5" longer after a 1" hem), but not necessarily cut lower in the back (don't ask me how I know this doesn't work well).  If the pattern is very fitted through the ankle you may need to make the bottom of the leg slightly bell shaped or flared to fit around the heel of the boot, but not a lot.  I'd add no more than about 1/2" on each side of the leg pattern over the distance that you added to the length.

[CaraSkates]

I've used that pattern before. I love that it has a gusset! When I want over the boot pants, I just add length to the pattern - I have long legs to begin with and the 28" inseam is too short anyway. I usually make it a 33" inseam (what I wear in jeans) and that is perfect. As long as you are using appropriately stretchy fabric, no need to add to the width. I also find this pattern to run a tad large - I am at the top end of the size Medium and if using Lycra, make a M. If using Powerstretch or want them to be more like my Under Armour compression leggings, I make a S.

[Skate@Delaware]

Measure her inseam with her wearing her skates...go all the way down to where the end of the pants should go and use that as your final inseam measurement. That's how I do it. I don't add too much width around the bottom or they won't stay snug around the heel/skate, but you do need to add a little bit. Just measure around the skate and compare it to the measurement on the pattern. Adjust for the amount of stretch in the fabric. I made a "mock-up" using a strip of fabric just so I'd have the right amount of give at the bottom.

[Isk8NYC]

Done!  Three pairs of pants with extra-long legs. 

Thanks for all the advice and feedback!  It was all very helpful.  I added about 5" to the longest length on the pattern.  Had to redraw the calf pattern line because the two pieces didn't match.  It was strange to use a paper pattern instead of a tissue-paper pattern, but it is very durable.  I reused it three times and it's still in good shape.

It's a nice, simple pattern and the gusset wasn't hard to insert - you just do one side at a time.    The seam allowances are really narrow, which I liked because I hate trimming seams.  However, I should not have clipped the notches in the seam allowance; I should have chalked them because the clipped notches made the seams hard to sew/uneven, especially the center back seam with the double notch.  I made a note on the pattern to remind myself next time.

Tip: When it comes time to fold the legs to create the inseams, start pinning from the hem to the gusset.  It made matching up the pieces easy-peasy.  I tried it the other way and sure enough, I mismatched the pieces and had to pull all the pins out and start over.

The front fit was a little bunchy, so I took it in a bit to make it look flatter/nicer.  Have a little fabric left over, so I might make the shirt pattern with some colored lycra scraps I have in my stores, just to use everything up.

The kids think the bottoms will stretch over the boots, but I'm not too sure -- we'll find out soon enough.  I figure if they're too narrow, I'll open up the seam and insert a panel to widen the bottom.

Thanks again!

[Skate@Delaware]

The kids think the bottoms will stretch over the boots, but I'm not too sure -- we'll find out soon enough.  I figure if they're too narrow, I'll open up the seam and insert a panel to widen the bottom.

Thanks again!

Even on pants that are slightly narrow, continued stretching will MAKE them fit lol! They will stretch to fit if they are almost wide enough.  I'm glad it worked out great! You just saved yourself a kajillion $$$$!

If you are interested in stretch polar fleece-www.rockywoods.com has some nice stuff in 60" width and it's reasonably priced. Very stretchy. I made a pair of pants and found out it is soooo stretchy that I should have made the pants about 2-3 sizes smaller (in width) because it was so stretchy.

[jjane45]

I need 2-3 pairs of new practice pants and buying brand names would be at least $120+. Some friends of mine sew regularly and I am thinking of asking one of them a favor... Hoping to get some pointers from our knowledgeable forum members, please excuse the noob questions, thank you so much.

Pattern
Skittl pointed out in another thread that athletic pants could be harder to sew than dresses (ops). What patterns do you recommend and what modifications are generally needed for skating pants? Isk8NYC mentioned Kwik-Sew 3455 a while back, any pros and cons among different patterns? I am... um... on the fat side even outside of the skating world.

Fabric
No preference on stretchiness or warmth, but I hope it could be moisture wicking / somewhat waterproof (ETA: getting wet from falls irritates me more than sweat). I see Under Armor and Polartec Power Stretch are popular, pros and cons? Any recommendations for cheap bargain deals in black color? Approximately how many yards for 3 pairs of adult S pants? Does the stretchiness affect the choice or size of pattern?

Durability
Assuming reasonable sewing skills, right pattern and fabric, are homemade pants comparable to brand names in terms of durability?

Thank you so very much in advance for your help! I hope this works out

[nicklaszlo]

I hope it could be moisture wicking / somewhat waterproof.

I think you have to pick one or the other.  I'd say that with wicking, you might get wet, while with waterproof, you are guaranteed to get wet since it keeps the sweat in.

[Skate@Delaware]

Pattern
Skittl pointed out in another thread that athletic pants could be harder to sew than dresses (ops). What patterns do you recommend and what modifications are generally needed for skating pants? Isk8NYC mentioned Kwik-Sew 3455 a while back, any pros and cons among different patterns? I am... um... on the fat side even outside of the skating world.

Fabric
No preference on stretchiness or warmth, but I hope it could be moisture wicking / somewhat waterproof (ETA: getting wet from falls irritates me more than sweat). I see Under Armor and Polartec Power Stretch are popular, pros and cons? Any recommendations for cheap bargain deals in black color? Approximately how many yards for 3 pairs of adult S pants? Does the stretchiness affect the choice or size of pattern?

Durability
Assuming reasonable sewing skills, right pattern and fabric, are homemade pants comparable to brand names in terms of durability?

Thank you so very much in advance for your help! I hope this works out

Pattern-We use Kwik-Sew patterns a lot; they are easy to follow and many of the patterns are somewhat interchangeable.  If you use a pattern, you can adapt it to fit you better than trying to size correctly from store bought. Also, you can have the legs extended to fit over the heel of your skate, at a fraction of purchased pants.
Fabric-You can use stretch polar fleece or fabrics similar to under armour or even cotton/lycra. Keep in mind the more cotton content, the wetter the item will remain.
Durability-I've found no real difference between home-sewn or commercial. I've had commercial pants rip/tear just as often as home-sewn.

If you are difficult to fit, or have difficulty finding the "perfect" skating pants, then have them made for you.  I have found many of my under armour pants on eBay, at thrift shops, etc. and I have made about 4-5 pairs of my own pants (under armour type, cotton/lycra, and stretch polar fleece).

[Orianna2000]

I'm a sewing instructor in my spare time and I've found that if you want your pants (or any other garment) to fit as if it was made for you, you need to insist on a mock-up. This is vital to getting a good fit. It's very rare that a pattern will fit you right out of the package, so it's always a good idea to have your dressmaker make up your pattern out of a cheaper fabric and custom fit them to you. This will ensure a perfect made-for-you fit. Once the fitting process is done, she'll have the altered patterns that she can use as a template, so you shouldn't have to go through the mock-up again, unless you try a new pattern, or gain/lose weight.

There are books out there specifically on how to fit pants. I recommend Pants For Real People by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto.

[jjane45]

Many thanks everyone!! Got to get measured with my friend first and go from there!

[SK8N]

What I've done before is used a pair of pants I already had as a pattern.  I had a pair that I liked that had a hole in it, so I ripped out all the seams and made new ones.  The weren't leggings, they were just for the gym, but it worked well. 

I did make leggings from a pattern and the crotch was baggy.  Didn't worry about it because it was for a costume and shorts went over the leggings.  If I'd known the crotch would have been so bad, I probably would have pulled an older pair of leggings apart to use as a pattern.

[isakswings]

I'd like to make dd some skating pants and a matching jacket, but I can't find a decent pattern. Most pant patterns I have found, are either yoga style pants or leggings. I can modify a pattern, but I'd really prefer to just have one I can make rather then modifying one. TIA

[ChristyRN]

Have you tried Jalie or Kwik Sew?

[isakswings]

Have you tried Jalie or Kwik Sew?

Yeah. I can't find what I want. I have a Kwik sew pattern right now and the problem is, I need to figure out how to adjust the legs on the pants. I make her the adult XS but she wants them to fit tighter...

[FigureSpins]

I made the Kwik-Sew ones a size smaller, as Skate@Delaware recommended, but they're baggy like jodhpurs.

I have to take them apart and recut them.  

I'm either going to try this pattern:  http://www.shelby.fi/kaava/302/302.php

or I'll adjust the sizing using the tips on this page:
http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/2008/07/29/pants-pattern-alteration/

[RosiePosie.iskates]

Does anyone know of a pattern to sew girls/ladies figure skating pants? I've found many, but they are to sew the pants which only pull over the lace hooks on the neck of the boot. I would like to sew some that are able to be pulled over the back of the boots. (like the spiral ones from Chloe Noel) And if it's impossible to find such a pattern, any tips on how to alter a leggings pattern to make them wider at the bottom, like skating pants? Thank you!

[Isk8NYC]

Merged with earlier topic on same subject.