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Waterproofing Blades

Started by kiwiskater, August 21, 2011, 04:28:43 AM

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kiwiskater

I talked to my coach the other day about the rust issues with my skates. Her suggestion was to waterproof the blades but I'm clueless.

She uses beeswax but couldn't describe it but did recommend a product with moisturiser consistency. I wonder if the Nikwax I use to waterproof the leather of my boots would be suitable? I know Bill uses WD40 in a stick but I can't find that anywhere here....

Also should I wait about a day after I last skated before 'sealing' the blades?
Do I cover the entire blade everywhere or just the skating surface?

Suggestions/advice?

FigureSpins

Never heard of waterproofing the blades, other than mounting them with silicone caulk underneath, to allow it to seal the blade to the boot, sorry.

Sewing stores sell beeswax in little round containers - you can just rub it over the blades after they're dried and warmed up.  It will get on your soakers, though that may not be a bad thing in your case.
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sarahspins

I've never heard of this either.. in fact when I skated on artificial ice (a promotional thing many years ago), it was mentioned repeatedly that the oil used on that surface had to be cleaned off the blades before they were used on ice again.

Query

Maybe the artificial ice lubricant is closer to a thick grease, which would make a mess on real ice? It may also include steel shavings, because artificial ice (by which I mean fake ice) isn't as slippery as real ice. Maybe wax would make a mess too?

I use use "3 in 1 oil", but any light mineral (non-food) oil should do. (Some food oils rot!) A very thin coat, so it doesn't make a mess on the ice either. I carefully dry out the entire blade, including mounting screws, put a drop or two of oil in my fingers, then spread the oil with my fingers on the entire surface and screws. If you think oil is yucky, use a cloth.

I doubt a thin coat of light oil on the blades will significantly affect the ice. Insignificant compared to the dirt some people's blades transfer after walking on the floor.

Drying is sufficient without the oil, if the blades are kept in a low humidity environment. And stainless steel blades and screws don't rust very fast anyway. But oil works - at least until your next skate.


Skittl1321

I live in a very high humidity area and find that drying my blades thoroughly and storing them in soakers is sufficient.  I have never heard of anyone waterproofing blades (though waterproofing soles is essential!)
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KillianL

I like WD-40 for its water-repelling qualities.  I find it isn't as greasy as some other products, and a little goes a long way.  But I echo the sentiments of others - a thorough job of drying your skates (blades AND soles please!), promptly covering the blades with dry soakers, and letting them air dry uncovered upon reaching your destination are enough to keep rust from forming.  I usually only have a problem if I have to leave my skates in the car trunk for anything other than a very short car ride.