skatingforums
On the Ice => The Pro Shop => Topic started by: Bill_S on March 29, 2022, 11:57:02 AM
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I haven't worked much with Edea skates yet. Edea specifies their own double-helix screw for their plastic soles. Here's a link to their page about their special screws...
https://edeaskates.com/en/ice/why-edea-is-so-special/more-confidence/blade-mounting-screws/ (https://edeaskates.com/en/ice/why-edea-is-so-special/more-confidence/blade-mounting-screws/)
Frankly, I wouldn't put a zinc-chromate plated screw into a new boot. The photos on their page show screws of marginal production quality too.
If I were to mount a blade onto a Edea boots, I'd use a stainless steel version of those screws - https://www.mcmaster.com/plastic-screws/high-strength-410-stainless-steel-rounded-head-thread-forming-screws-for-brittle-plastic/ (https://www.mcmaster.com/plastic-screws/high-strength-410-stainless-steel-rounded-head-thread-forming-screws-for-brittle-plastic/)
This leads me to my question - has anyone here replaced damaged or corroded Edea-supplied screws with something like the stainless screws in the link? If so, how close is the thread pitch, and are there any notable differences in the thread angle?
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Thanks for bringing this up, Bill.
I have been thinking along the same lines as you- I might order some of these to compare. So many of the boot manufacturers are using plastics for sales now, and the standard screws I've always use are more likely to strip or crack the soles.
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Without having direct experience, I think that a careful comparison is about the only way to see how interchangeable they are.
If you undertake this, I would be very grateful.
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Edea´s boots are very popular here in Europe, so I have seen quite may pairs of them during the years. In my opinion zink coated screws are major problem only on boots with leather soles. Even some boots does have protective layer / film on sole, which should prevent leather to suck moisture, it does not help on screw issues. Even I used glue, moisture will enter in to the screw holes and cause severe corrosion to the screws. I do not know why the the leather soles are so bad for the zink coated screws, but its almost same like using zink coated screws on impregnated wood. I do have acid resisting stainless steel screws for leather soles, but no-a-days I do not use them so much, when also Risport recommends to use only their screws which are Zink coated. Most of the boots here are either Risport or Edea.
In Edea boots I use Edea screws. You can see some oxidation after some years, but hardly ever I see any more severe damage. I believe it is thanks to full plastic soles which are not sucking any moisture. Due this property, I love Edea boots. Does the Edea boots have any other benefits, that can be another story. At least too often there is huge gap between the blade and sole, which causes own troubles.
It happens way too often that the green screw bag which should be in the same box with the boots, has been lost before boots and blades arrives to me. For this reason I have purchased these screws in bigger bags so that we do not need to wait several days to get screws from the skate retailer. Before I did have my own stock of Edea screws, I use those stainless screws, zink coated screws or screws which are delivered together with blades. I have never seen any issues even the screws has been "wrong type". In the other hand all skaters are basically children's with less weight and lower grade jumps. I would ensure that screws are long enough so that they enter to that white plastic "insole" in toe plate area.
Air is pretty dry in my country, so I cannot know how Edea screws works on areas which has more tropical ambient conditions than we have. Personally I do not have any plans to change using stainless screws on Edea boots. On Risport boots I have considered stainless screws.
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I live in a rainforest, so I am constantly dealing with rusting screws. Only a couple of skaters wear Edea boots here, one who has left for college and one skater who moved from Jackson to Edea in October and has decided to go back to Jackson because she does not like the feel of the Edea boots... so I don't have much experience seeing if the Edea screws corrode. Good to hear Kaitsu’s experience on this.
I see a lot of rusted screws on the older Jackson boots with plastic soles (Artiste, Mystique) and also on the newer PVC soles. it might just be that our climate is particularly hard on skates. I use stainless screws on everything that I can, but I’m finding that the plastic soles seem to strip very easily, so the hi-lo thread stainless screws seem like they would be worth trying.
McMaster-Carr charges outrageous shipping to Alaska, unfortunately, so I will have to do some shopping around to see if I can find the screws elsewhere.
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Do I understand correctly that Edea uses their double helix screws so that they can use thinner sole boots, to save weight?
Perhaps double helix screws make sense to increase surface area contact to those of you with an engineering background. But it isn't intuitively obvious to me that you couldn't do the same thing by using more threads/inch.
At one point in time, an Edea rep told me they drilled all the way through, which I thought meant they used a nut and washer inside the boot to secure a bolt, which I would have thought meant they don't need threads, unless the threads are mostly there to slow moisture penetration, or to add extra hold. Maybe that isn't true now? Or did I guess wrong, or has that changed?
BTW, fascinating that Alaska has rain forests. It must be so beautiful there, a place of great contrasts. Do you love it? Do you ever skate outdoors?
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Query - These screws are sometimes called Hi-Lo screws because of the double threads. If you want more information about them, try this link - https://www.wclco.com/threaded-fasteners/screws-for-plastics-and-other-low-density-materials/hi-lo-fasteners/ (https://www.wclco.com/threaded-fasteners/screws-for-plastics-and-other-low-density-materials/hi-lo-fasteners/)
supersharp - I hear you about McMaster-Carr shipping costs. Even here it is very high compared to most vendors, although I'm sure it doesn't compare to what you experience in Alaska. In my case, one benefit for shipping $$$$ is turnaround time. I usually have orders to my door in less than 24 hours after ordering from McMaster. Unfortunately, there is no option for slower shipping if I want to save money.
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At one point in time, an Edea rep told me they drilled all the way through, which I thought meant they used a nut and washer inside the boot to secure a bolt, which I would have thought meant they don't need threads, unless the threads are mostly there to slow moisture penetration, or to add extra hold. Maybe that isn't true now? Or did I guess wrong, or has that changed?
You got it wrong. Drilling through the sole was not intended for a nut and bolt. The sole is thin, so you need to maximize the depth of material for the screws to bite into. And unlike standard sheet metal screws, which have a pointed tip, Edea screws have a blunt tip to minimize risk of piercing the footbed.
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Picture of different screw types added
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Picture of different screw types added
The Edea screws are obviously different from standard sheet metal screws. But do you notice anything different about the Risport screws (that is not evident from the photos)?
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supersharp - I hear you about McMaster-Carr shipping costs. Even here it is very high compared to most vendors, although I'm sure it doesn't compare to what you experience in Alaska. In my case, one benefit for shipping $$$$ is turnaround time. I usually have orders to my door in less than 24 hours after ordering from McMaster. Unfortunately, there is no option for slower shipping if I want to save money.
Yeah, I've used McMaster-Carr since I was a grad student working on my dissertation project (and later when I was working in industrial R&D). This was in the Pre-InterNet days, when they had a thick printed catalog. They are primarily a business-to-business (B2B) supplier; large in-stock inventory and quick delivery are paramount. The only inexpensive delivery to Alaska is via US Post; but they use private carriers. And there are even more unexpected $$$$$ delivery charges if the order ships in multiple packages (e.g., items shipped from more than one warehouse, or if an item is temporarily out of stock): there is a (relatively high) minimum delivery charge per package. Quite a shock for shoppers weaned on Amazon.
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But do you notice anything different about the Risport screws (that is not evident from the photos)?
No, I do not see any secrets on them. Thread pitch in Risport screws is more coarse and they are slightly longer than Wilson screws. Conical head is also smaller than what I used to see. nothing else. I would say that correct length is most important feature, which secures proper blade mounting.
Finally Edea has implemented screws also for composite framed blades. It has been a bit scaring to see how conical head Edea screws has been used example for JW Revolution blades
https://edeaskates.com/en/ice/blade-mounting/
https://edeaskates.com/en/ice/why-edea-is-so-special/more-confidence/blade-mounting-screws/
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Perhaps double helix screws make sense to increase surface area contact to those of you with an engineering background. But it isn't intuitively obvious to me that you couldn't do the same thing by using more threads/inch.
BTW, fascinating that Alaska has rain forests. It must be so beautiful there, a place of great contrasts. Do you love it? Do you ever skate outdoors?
More threads per inch makes the space between threads smaller, which seems to lead to stripping much faster on the new Jackson soles. The hi-lo screws have a wider spacing on the “hi” threads, leaving more structural integrity in the plastic.
Alaska is an enormous state with many sub-climates. All of them are beautiful- I’m in a lush forested area and farther northwest there are some desolate areas with a stark beauty that is hard to describe. I’m sure there is similar terrain on many northern countries.
Yes, I skate outside when I can, now that I have an extra pair of skates with older blades that I don’t have to worry about running over grit and other debris. It’s pretty glorious to be outside but of course the ice quality is quite variable. There had been talk about adding a seasonal outdoor sheet of ice next to outer rink, but it is next to a beach (called Sandy Beach) and when the winter wind blows, there is just too much sand that would be deposited on the ice.
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One difference that I see between the Risport and Wilson screws is that the Risport flat-head screws are a larger diameter than their round head screws. I wonder why they chose to do this?
In the leather soles that I have attached blades too, I use smaller size #6 screws to start with, and only need to go to a larger diameter #8 screw if someone brings a skate to me with a stripped thread in the leather.
In a rough approximation, the Risport screws would correspond with #6 and #8 screw sizes in the US.
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No, I do not see any secrets on them. Thread pitch in Risport screws is more coarse and they are slightly longer than Wilson screws. Conical head is also smaller than what I used to see. nothing else. I would say that correct length is most important feature, which secures proper blade mounting.
Thanks for the details of the Risport screws. I recently replaced blades for a friend of mine. Her boots were Risports, which I've never worked on before. I had previously read on the Risport website that they used special screws. There was no photo, so I thought, "Oh, they must be like the Edea screws." But when I demounted her old blades, the screws appeared to be regular sheet metal screws (I didn't inspect them in detail). I thought maybe her tech hadn't used the special screws. But since she had been skating with them for about a year without problems, I plugged the old holes, drilled new holes, and installed stainless-steel sheet metal screws for her new blades. So, thanks to your post, I have no concerns over long-term issues with the screws I used.
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OK, it makes some sense double helix screws are better in many respects. Why aren't they more common?
BTW one of Kaitsu's Edea links
https://edeaskates.com/en/ice/blade-mounting/
is fairly informative, but a bit hard to understand, because the English language grammar and semantics are a bit unclear, and the idea that the blade length should only depend on the outsole length and geometry, not the foot, has never made sense to me. (Though a Klingbeil rep [I think] once told me that on a properly designed fully custom boot, the optimal length for the foot matches the optimal length for the boot.) They initially say that it should be determined entirely by the boot - but the comments make it sound like they might be talking about aligning with control points on the foot.
So I sent them an inquiry:
At https://edeaskates.com/en/ice/blade-mounting/ you say
"Firstly, we need to choose the correct blade for our discipline and skating level.
Whatever the discipline, the length of the blade is determined by the size of the boot. This allows the contact points to line up with the “active” parts of the blades.
The rocker with the ball of the foot and the center of the heel blade with your heel for the best control and quickest response.
Longer blades do not line up, slowing response, reducing control and causing possible injuries as you overcompensate."
The meaning of this is unclear. Perhaps it is an English language translation problem? It would be helpful if you would clarify the meaning.
Is 'This allows the contact points to line up with the “active” parts of the blades.' meant to imply that the mount length is partly a structural issue for the boot and blade, rather than just a control issue?
Am I correct that you don't offer full custom boots, so it is impossible for some people to get Edea boots in which the center of the foot heel is aligned precisely with the center of the boot heal, and the center of the ball is aligned precisely with the indicated point on the boot? Should such people get a blade length which is a compromise between that determined by the boot length and geometry, and the foot length and geometry?
E.g., Is the forward vertical line meant to pass through both the ball of the foot, and the transition point between the main blade rocker, and the spin rocker?
I doubt they will respond, but it is worth a try.
Does anyone know if the Italian grammar and semantics makes things more clear?
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Since McMaster-Carr is mostly B2B, perhaps they sell stuff to some Alaska retail outlets - and you could cut shipping costs by buying or ordering through them, so that it was part of a larger order?
You could ask McMaster-Carr for local distributors, by contacting at https://www.mcmaster.com/contact.
Also, https://www.trustedparts.com/en/manufacturers/mcmaster-carr might list some of their distributors.
If you know the people at a local pro shop well, maybe they would sell you the Edea screws at a reasonable price. I've bought or even been given other screws at a shop where I knew the people.
I suppose your area might be too remote for Edea to send reps to local skate competitions? If not, maybe you could contact them in advance and ask them to bring some screws?
(Salt water) marine market screws are generally much more corrosion resistant, but the steels they use are softer. I don't know if that matters for this application. I've been tempted to use them. There are even aluminum (very soft) screws, and titanium screws (outrageously priced, but can be pretty strong), which are also more corrosion resistant, sometimes used in marine applications, like sea kayaks, though I've had even aluminum bolts corrode badly on sea kayaks. But if you sometimes skate on water with some salt in it, that is a marine application.
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Query—There is no pro shop here, unfortunately. I’m probably the only person in town that knows what an Edea screw looks like (which is not surprising since everyone else only sees the screw heads). We don’t have any big competitions here, so no boot or blade reps ever come. Good idea to see if any of the industrial shops here order from MMC. We used to have a Fastenal store, but it closed when Covid hit
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Oh. I assumed Juneau was a dense population center. Just looked it up. My bad. Presumably Juneau's Play It Again Sports doesn't carry the screws you want. You could put "Juneau's Leading Skating Pro Shop!" on your mailbox, maybe you could buy at wholesale (might need a business license), but that wouldn't overcome shipping costs.
I'm out of ideas.
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Juneau's Play It Again Sports closed about 5 years ago. Current population is about 32,000, so we are not tiny but are isolated. We have a funny mix of some things you might not expect (capital city effect, we need to be able to keep the legislature entertained) and a lack of things that are surprising at times. Like no skate shops even though our ice is packed with hockey players and figure skaters.
I have a business and a business license, but I'm not buying in quantity. However, I did manage to order the stainless hi-lo screws from MMC and have them shipped to my daughter's house in Washington for only $10. If she gets sick of looking at them, she can put them in a flat rate box and ship them to me for under $20. Otherwise, I will pick them up and bring them back in my luggage on my next trip or she can bring them up if she comes here sooner than I go down there.
I put 4 boxes of 100 screws each (panhead and flathead in 1/2" and 3/4") and the shipping to Juneau was going to be $99. Ouch!
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Edea responded to my questions about blade length:
You emailed Edea about mounting and questions about Edea boots, they sent the email to me.
So I believe you are overthinking the blade length for Edea boots. Here at SkatesUS, we have a chart that tells you what the largest blade should be on an Edea boot. Most coaches prefer that the largest blade should be used for a freestyle skater. As far as centering the blade, a good tech should know how to see the center of the sole of an Edea boot to get a proper temp mount. As all blades should be temp mounted first and have the skater skate on them to see if they need to be moved and/or adjusted.
Second, Edea does not offer custom boots because all Edea boots are custom shapeable. So you can get a custom fit from a stock boot. A lot of SkatesUS dealers can custom shape Edea boots for a skater with the proper equipment. Here is a link to the SkatesUS dealer list. Just find a dealer in your area and look for the yellow blowdry icon when clicking on the dealer's name. That means they have been trained by SkatesUS for shaping. Dealers are listed by State.
https://skatesus.com/ice-skating-dealers/
Blade Chart
https://skatesus.com/product/ice-fly-90/
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Thank you
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Tim Gordon
Dealer & Customer Support, Skates U.S.
765-994-7470 | Tim@skatesus.com
765-935-7477 Orderdesk@skatesus.com
www.skatesus.com
415 W. Eaton Pike Richmond, IN 47374
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Hahahahaha. "I believe you are overthinking the blade length for Edea boots".
Possibly, but it does seem a bit like this response is underthinking the lineup of the blade with the boot. But I think that answers your question in a different way--just put the longest blade on them possible and go to the hairdryer icon people to get them shaped for your feet. That is as custom as they get. I know there is a limit to the amount they can stretch the boot shell, which is also true for ski boots. If you aren't close to the width or length of the boot, they probably aren't going to work.
Thanks for sharing this response, it is always interesting to see what the "marketed" response will be.
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What I probably shouldn't say, since I haven't seen recent Edea boots, is that AFAIK, you can't reshape the soles, which is to me one of the most important parts of custom boots.
In particular, as far as I understand it, and I could be completely wrong, the uppers of their boots are constructed much like fiberglass or carbon fiber boats - a plastic resin bonds fibers together. And, again I could be completely wrong, I think their reshaping technique involves heating the the resins to the point of being "plastic" (i.e., deformable, creating new bonds as the old ones are broken), then stretching the material to shape by forcing the fibers slide against each other. But if I understood what the fitter said, the soles can't be deformed that way.
Or maybe everything has all changed for "microfiber" boots.
When I had an Edea fitting (years ago, and not with microfiber construction), I think by the person who owned SkateUS (he came to a competition, and customized one person after another in fairly rapid succession), I was told that my feet were too different in shape (wide toes, narrow heels, and of a size about halfway between their stock sizes) for reshaping to work. So there may be some limits.
Please don't take my skepticism as authoritative. Maybe they CAN do a good job now, and their boots can be made to perfectly fit almost everyone. That would be nice.
I thought a bit more about these double helix (hi-lo) screws. Much of the indicated advantage over just using more threads/inch in a single helix thread follows from the narrower angle (30 degrees vs 45) in the thread shape. You could replicate that angle in a normal thread - but maybe that would go against the conventions that people who use screws expect. I.E., the standard that people expect is a particular thread shape, (just like a pan head screw is expected to have a countersink, and a round is not). Whereas the convention for hi-lo screws is the narrower thread angle. People don't expect to have to check the thread angle when they replace a screw.
I do see why you can screw them in more quickly, because it requires fewer turns to screw them in. But perhaps abandoning the self-tapping feature - by having a blunt end - eliminates the time advantage.
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When you mount Edea boots, you remove the insole and drill all the way through the sole. The front sole plate screws go most of the way through the sole, so for Edea boots, it is necessary that they be blunted to keep the screw gripping all the way to the inside of the sole. And helpful to have no pointy things stabbing into your insole as well.
For all boots, drilling a pilot hole for the screws is important. For the newer synthetic soles, you can crack the sole if the pilot hole is too small. On leather or LCL soles…I have seen many mountings with no pilot hole. The screw takes up space and the leather can only compress to a modest extent. Not creating a void for the screw causes the leather to bulge, making your sole slightly lumpy. It also means you have less control over the angle the screw takes, which can result in tilted screw heads applying unnecessary tension on the boot and sole plate. I use pointed stainless screws on leather and I use a smaller and shorter pilot hole for the front sole plate screws so the point beds into solid leather at full depth. The stacked leather heels are much stiffer and require a bigger pilot hole.
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I thought a bit more about these double helix (hi-lo) screws. Much of the indicated advantage over just using more threads/inch in a single helix thread follows from the narrower angle (30 degrees vs 45) in the thread shape. You could replicate that angle in a normal thread - but maybe that would go against the conventions that people who use screws expect. I.E., the standard that people expect is a particular thread shape, (just like a pan head screw is expected to have a countersink, and a round is not). Whereas the convention for hi-lo screws is the narrower thread angle. People don't expect to have to check the thread angle when they replace a screw.
I do see why you can screw them in more quickly, because it requires fewer turns to screw them in. But perhaps abandoning the self-tapping feature - by having a blunt end - eliminates the time advantage.
* If you read the reference Bill cited in Reply #6, as well as other references giving details of screw threads, you will note that the thread angle on standard screws is commonly 60 deg, not 45 deg, although 45 deg, as well as other angles, is used.
* A pan head screw does not have a countersunk portion. See, e.g., https://fastenerengineering.com/what-are-pan-head-screws/:
"Pan head screws take their name from the appearance of their head, which looks similar to an upside-down frying pan. Pan head screws are a common head type of non-countersunk screw head used in wood screws, self-tapping screws, self-drilling screws, and machine screws." <<Emphasis added>>
* In addition to what supersharp wrote in Reply #23, note that a sharp tip is not required for a self-tapping screw. The sharp tip is required only if you do not drill a pilot hole or if you drill a pilot hole of insufficient depth (i.e., the depth of the pilot hole is less than the length of the body of the screw). Otherwise, the screw threads take care of the self-tapping function.
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BTW, I do usually drill a thin pilot hole in boot soles. Quite apart from splitting the material, and the other things that Supersharp mentioned that I didn't know about, I can't do a good job of placing and aligning the screw without it.
$30 is still a lot to ship 100 screws, but I don't live in Alaska. I hope you get what you want.
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I ordered stainless hi-lo thread screws from McMaster Carr (MMC) and had them delivered to my daughter's house for $10 instead of to my house for $99. I just got back from visiting her and was finally able to compare them to the Edea screws. Photo attached.
Screw size--I ordered #6 screws in 1/2" and 3/4" lengths, plus one box of #8x1/2" for holes that are stripped at the #6 size.
Screw length--the Edea is between the two lengths I ordered. Edea does not use a longer screw in the heels because the heel is hollow (thanks, Katisu, for that clarification). I use the 3/4" screws on the heels on non-Edea boots.
Relative height of threads--the difference in the size of the high and low threads on the Edea screws is slightly more than on the MMC screws, but my guess is they will have a very similar performance and have the advantage of not rusting.
I'm looking forward to trying these on the newer nylon Jackson soles as well as seeing how well they work on leather. I will report back once I have a chance to use them...probably closer to July when our rink reopens and the kids all discover they have outgrown their boots...
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Wonderful!
The Edea must be around a 5/8" length, which is available from McMaster. Screw quality looks like it favors the McMaster-Carr supplied screws, plus they are stainless steel.
Both Edea and the screws stocked by McMaster-Carr appear to have roughly the same thread pitch and thread shape. Looks can deceive, especially being seen as a photo on a web page, but that increases the chance of them being interchangable.
Good research work!
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If indeed the McMaster-Carr screws aren't quite the same length, possibly you could cut the 3/4" ones to the right length, though that would be a nuisance.
Could the rough surface of Edea screws create significant extra friction, and therefore be good?
I assume you use longer screws for the heel. Or is heel layer separation not the problem for Edea boots that I found it to be for Graf Edmonton Special boots (whose heels were composed of multiple leather layers, glued together, that came apart), when I used screws that didn't quite reach the outsole?
Supersharp, would you actually test for the corrosion resistance and/or strength and durability of Edea vs McMaster-Carr screws, or do you simply trust the latter better?
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Query--I am willing to trust that a stainless screw will hold up better than whatever it is that Edea is providing, but I will also be watching to see if I see any signs of corrosion.
I plan to use the MMC screws on my next few mountings, hoping I will have some leather or LCL soles to try them on. That is the best test, since it is the actual conditions that I want better performance for. I'd like to test the screws side-by-side, but the Edea screws would probably need to be shortened for the front soles of some boots. It looks like the Edea screws have some sort of coating or surface treatment, but I have not ground one down to see if that is just the color of the metal. Assuming it is a protective coating or treatment, it creates a somewhat unfair test for me to grind off part of that coating and then compare it to a stainless screw.
I have shortened screws before by grinding the tips down, it is kind of a nuisance but it was necessary when the soles were so thin that the pointed end of a 1/2" screw was coming through the sole and stabbing into the insole. The next shorter screw length seemed too insubstantial to me, so I ground the tip off of the 1/2" screw. This also had the advantage of having a flat tip so I could use a screw that went in flush to the inside of the boot. Generally speaking, I don't really want to grind screws to shorten them. If I really wanted the same length as the Edea screws, I would order the 5/8" length that Bill mentioned.
What I really wanted from the MMC screws is to be able to try the high-low thread style and see if it performs better than screws with threads that are all the same height. I expect the MMC screws to perform better in the synthetic soles because that is really what they are designed for. I'm also expecting that there will be less stripping in leather, but time will tell. It may turn out that leather strips less easily with standard screws and needs the bite of having all of the threads full width.
I'm looking forward to seeing what happens.
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In terms of materials, Edea isn't very specific.
https://edeaskates.com/en/ice/why-edea-is-so-special/more-confidence/blade-mounting-screws/
says
"These modern precision engineered screws are made of 100% galvanized steel to protect against the corrosion and rust that are part of the challenge of skates design."
https://edeaskates.com/en/ice/accessories/tech/100-screws-blade-assembly/
says
"The screws are made of lightweight, innovative materials; they screw in fast and do not rust."
Very unspecific. I guess it isn't in a competitive manufacturer's best interests to discuss exactly how they make anything.
I was curious about how steel can be "lightweight". I found technical articles that discussed including aluminum in "lightweight" steel alloys, including some stainless alloys developed in the past several years which are claimed to be stronger and/or more ductile, lighter, and more corrosion resistant than more common stainless steels. But I don't know enough to evaluate them, nor is Edea specific enough in what I found to figure anything out. But well controlled testing, at your rinks and in your climate, would be a major nuisance to do.
I think of steel as an old technology, but apparently there are enough factors to vary that there are still new combinations to try, that are claimed to make significant improvements. I suppose that applies to blades too.
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I would say that Edea´s screw does have electroplated zink coating. Electroplate is available in different colors like yellow, blue (which is more close to chrome than blue) and black. Its very common coating method on steel screws.
https://4.imimg.com/data4/LB/JT/ANDROID-40961865/product-250x250.jpeg
I can confirm that Edea screws are not made from any lighter material than steel. Conical head screw weight is 0.96 grams and flat head screw weight is 1.19 grams.
Wilson screw weighs are 0.82g / 1.01g (shorter) and 1.14g / 1.29g (longer). Heavier screw from the same length is always flat head screw.
Weight differences comes more from the physical size than material. We are anyhow talking about so small weights that our foots sweat moisture is increasing more weight than different screw types. Talking about light weight screws is just marketing hype. If weight of the screws sounds important, using women 20 denier nylon socks instead of regular socks is more easier way to reduce same amount of weight.
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I agree with Kaitsu, screw weight is a silly thing to worry about. Bunga (gel) pads weigh more than all of the screws holding a blade on, and as far as I can tell, skaters seem more concerned about the performance of the Bungas than the weight.
The obsession with lightweight boots and blades is a misplaced focus, in my opinion. Skaters doing many multiple rotation jumps daily might have a need for them, but otherwise, there is not really a big value in the lighter equipment. A heavier boot and blade actually have more stability, and the weight concentrated closer to the interface of the blade with the ice is an advantage.
I tried lightweight boots at one point--I stopped noticing the difference in weight after about a week and saw no improvements in my skating that were not based on improvements in my technique. When I went back to standard-weight boots, I stopped noticing the difference in weight in about 2 days. I also noticed that I had much better support in the heavier boots, but that was likely due mainly to the change in boot manufacturer.
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I agree with Kaitsu, screw weight is a silly thing to worry about. Bunga (gel) pads weigh more than all of the screws holding a blade on, and as far as I can tell, skaters seem more concerned about the performance of the Bungas than the weight.
The obsession with lightweight boots and blades is a misplaced focus, in my opinion. Skaters doing many multiple rotation jumps daily might have a need for them, but otherwise, there is not really a big value in the lighter equipment. A heavier boot and blade actually have more stability, and the weight concentrated closer to the interface of the blade with the ice is an advantage.
I tried lightweight boots at one point--I stopped noticing the difference in weight after about a week and saw no improvements in my skating that were not based on improvements in my technique. When I went back to standard-weight boots, I stopped noticing the difference in weight in about 2 days. I also noticed that I had much better support in the heavier boots, but that was likely due mainly to the change in boot manufacturer.
Lightweight boots help for anything that requires you to lift your leg. Your boots are at the extreme end of them. Camel spins, spirals, sit spins, etc. It can also prevent overuse injuries for people who may end up in a boot thats a bit too heavy for them, as this may overwork some muscles or force them to compensate by using their back more.
They aren't just for jumping, and they are legitimately helpful.
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I have created a related thread for Graf screws, which look somewhat similar, though AFAICT, they aren't countersink screws.
https://skatingforums.com/index.php?topic=8755.msg104985#msg104985
Perhaps many modern brands of ultra-light boots, that use thin synthetic outsoles, will also use HiLo blunt end screws.
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I did test Edea´s screws in leather sole Riedell boots. Screws were in boots less than 6 months and at least for one month they were not used due the rink summer close season. Point is not to highlight that Edea Hi-Lo screws would be more worst than other Zink plated screws. Similar rusting can be seen in all electroplated screws. In the other words, intention is explain why stainless screws are highly recommended in leather sole boots.
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I agree with your conclusion - stainless steel screws avoid corrosion better than electro-plated screws. Your photo is good graphic evidence for the reason why.
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Salut à tous,
je vais posté ici, car je crois que c'est le mieux:
affuter c'st une chose, fixer des lames sur les bottes en est une autre.
J'ai des vis risport, d'autre vis inox vendu avec les lames mais je ne connais pas la marque.
Je perce avec la bonne meche.
Les vis se dévissent. et ma question:
pourrait on coller les vis avec du frein filet pour mécanique?
Hi all,
I'm going to post here, because I believe it's best:
sharpening is one thing, attaching blades to boots is another.
I have risport screws, other stainless steel screws sold with the blades but I don't know the brand.
I drill with the right bit.
The screws unscrew. and my question:
could we glue the screws with Thread-locking fluid for mechanics ( loctite)?
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I believe that Loctite is not indicated for materials other than metal-to-metal. I wouldn't use it. Loctite instructions also warn against using it with some plastics because of stress cracks that may develop. It's also brittle.
Try either epoxy or an RTV silicone adhesive in the thread.
With RTV silicone, a dab on the tops of screws and adjacent mounting plate can prevent them from rotating. This inhibits loosening but remains removable with a little work.
I had (well, still have) a pair of skates where I had RTV silicone on the plates and screws for ~10 years without any screws coming loose. For my own skates, this is what I'll use again.
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bill's
pourrais tu être plus précis sur silicone rtv car je m'y perds et il y a pas beaucoup de références en France!
could you be more specific on silicone rtv because I get lost and there are not many references in France!
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Here are some silicone glues that I have used in the past...
(https://www.afterness.com/skating/images/rtv_silicone_glue-3-600px.jpg)
(https://www.afterness.com/skating/images/rtv_silicone_glue-6-600px.jpg)
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The screws unscrew. and my question:
could we glue the screws with Thread-locking fluid for mechanics ( loctite)?
I concur with Bill, no to Loctite: it's brittle. I use rubber and gasket adhesive. There are many varieties; for this application, the choice is not too critical. Here's one I use: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40069393/. This adhesive stays flexible and tacky, allowing you to continue torquing down the screws in stages; e.g., when you're mounting a new blade to a new boot and need to tighten screws further after successive skating sessions.
This adhesive uses volatile organic compound solvents. To use, apply the adhesive to the screw threads and the bottom of the screw head. Let dry for about a minute or so. Then install the screw. This way, little solvent gets absorbed into the sole and heel of the boot.
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I really like the idea of using some type of thread lock for screws in leather soles. I hate the fact that you need to keep retightening - and that you always have to be careful not to use too much torque, or you strip the hole. It's a great idea.
Try either epoxy or an RTV silicone adhesive in the thread.
Have you tried either solution with leather soles? How well did it work?
Are there removable/easily breakable epoxies?
If you want to keep your boots but replace the blades, or vice versa, you need to be able to remove or break the glue. That sort of thing is why most thread locking glues aren't very strong. I think the epoxies I have played with, might form too strong a bond, though I admit I never use them with leather.
However, I've never tried applying heat to epoxy. Would that make it soft enough to remove if you had to, at a low enough temperature that a leather sole wouldn't be damaged?
Other possibilities, untested by me:
1. Use a (compressible) washer. The idea is to put continuous pressure on the screw, even if you get thermal expansion and contraction, or shock, so it can't slip as easily. I used to know an electrician who often used this technique so screw terminals wouldn't slip as much. (Incidentally there are screws with integral washers - I think they are called SEMS screws.)
2. After tightening a screw, wait 24 hours, and re-tighten. I don't fully understand why it helps, but it sometimes does. I got this idea from the electrician too.
3. Use a screw with a self-lockjng thread. I'm not quite sure how or if they work in boot sole materials. I've never used such a screw. I've only seen ads, and wondered if they were hype.
4. I wonder if you could use a glue gun. As long as the melting point was substantially below the temperature at which the sole would be damaged, you could break the bond if you had to by applying heat. Plus, the glue gun glues I have personally seen weren't very strong, so maybe you could break the bond if you had to without heat.
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I have been using Gorilla glue, but I am not fully satisfied for that. Its better than nothing but definitely not the most optimal glue for this purpose. The main issue in most of the glues what I have tried is that they do not absorb to leather and do not make drilled holes water tight. Moisture is that what causes all troubles in leather sole. Edea´s soles are not suffering from this issue.
Leather soles are like plastic bag where you drill hole and then you try to get it water tight with screw. After the skating there is always some water between the sole plate and sole what you cannot wiped away. That moisture will enter to screw holes capillary. When leather gets wet, it comes soft. When skates are used, soft leather will deform and hole is getting bigger and bigger which means water has even better access to screw holes. When there is tiny clearance, screws starts to condensate water and things are going all the time worst direction.
Therefore I do not believe that screws with any locking method would solve loosening issue. I do not either believe that thread locking glues would lock the screws to leather soles. This even I have lately used thread locking glue. The idea behind my test is that thread locking glues has low viscosity and their function is based to capillary. I want to see if thread locking glue would absorbed to leather making them watertight. I do not have high hope related to regular thread locking glues as they are not very elastic after drying. Perhaps Loctite 5400 thread sealant could be the better, but I believe it would be also too brittle. Therefore I am quite confident that silicon or silicon type of (RTV) gasket sealants works best, just like Bill recommended.
Using silicon would be be way too easy, so I think I will drive right a way to local shop to buy Permatex Form-A gasket sealant and I try how that works. Lets see what mess I cause for nice white boots with that sealant ;D https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eHEcf0itBuE
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For leather soles, once the blades lie flat enough to the sole that I am not having to create shims (or if I needed to sand any part of the sole down, I would have done it first, plus I would have identified the location for the four temporary mounting screws and would drill them in advance. I use SnoSeal for the next step. It seems better than any other product I have found because it contains more beeswax. Or some other kind of magic. There is also a family connection to the SnoSeal brand, but I will not go into that here...
I start by applying SnoSeal with a heat gun until the leather has saturated. The leather usually gets considerably darker, but to me it looks nice (not so dry and thirsty). The heated sole will soak up the SnoSeal for quite awhile--I treat one sole, then the other, and go back and forth until I feel like they are done (probably at least 10 times, sometimes more). The last coat of SnoSeal should be applied so it does not all soak in but leaves a little film on the surface. This can be polished with a soft cloth to act as a finish coat. Then I spread a layer of SnoSeal on the soles where the sole plates are going to sit, but leaving a 5mm-ish circle around the screw holes so I can insert the screws without coating them with SnoSeal. I line the blades up and tighten the screws. SnoSeal will be squished out around the edges and at the center of the blade (unless they have solid sole plates), as well as out of the other screw holes. This is a good sign that there is a nice layer of SnoSeal between the sole plate and the sole. I wipe off the excess but I leave a little in each of the empty screw holes to keep water out.
After any adjustments have been made to the mounting alignment, I remove the SnoSeal from the holes that will get additional screws and add screws. If the skates are for an adult, I have them test the alignment and usually will get back to gluing the screws on the next sharpening.
If the skates are for a kid (sorry, kids, no slight intended, but your feet are growing and you don't usually have orthotics in your skates, so there is a little more wiggle room for your foot to find the right place in the boot), I go ahead an glue the screws in at this point.
I have had better luck with a bit of clear epoxy on the screws than with silicone, but perhaps I used the wrong kind of silicone. Standard 5-min epoxy will adhere the screw to the leather enough that the screws have a tendency to stay put. It does not take a tremendous amount of effort to unscrew them if you need to--and there has never been leather stuck all over the screws. At first, I was really careful not to get any epoxy on the sole plates and to try to have the application of epoxy be invisible. Over time, I have discovered that it is more useful (and works better) to put a little bit of epoxy under the screw head and let it be slightly visible that it is there. Mainly it is a reminder to me as to whether I have or have not yet applied this epoxy.
If the SnoSeal is renewed periodically, I have had boots last for years without any water damage to the leather soles. Until I started adding SnoSeal under the sole plates, I used to see black growth there when I would replace blades, but I also was doing less adjustment (shimming or sanding) at that time, so the sole plates did not lay as flat on the sole.
All that being said, I live in a cold climate with a cold rink. There is no need to worry about skates getting hot and having the SnoSeal melt and ooze out from under the soles. I think if I was in a hotter climate or if we skated at a mall rink instead of in a barely heated building, I may want to try other options.
I have seen soles attached with silicone and have tried it as well. It should not be applied until the blade alignment is permanent because you will not be able to slide the blade sideways once the silicone cures. It is great in that the blade is solidly attached, but it is not something you want to try to undo very often. It can be used to help fill small gaps, though, and I have considered putting the silicon on the sole plate and then covering it with plastic film, then attaching it to the blade. This would allow it to form a shim that would seal the gap between the boot and blade but would still be simple to remove and you could also slide the blade over a tiny amount if needed for some reason.
I also tried sealing the edges of the sole plates with silicone in an attempt to keep water from getting under the sole plates. It just peels off. It seems to work fine in locations where it is compressed between two surfaces. Again, maybe I was using the wrong product.
Has anyone tried putting a bead of silicone around the sole plates with success (meaning that it is still in place months later)?
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I haven't tried using silicone seal after the blades have been mounted to seal the blade mount edges. I suspect adhesion problems will occur.
When mounting blades, I usually Sno Seal first, mount the blade temporarily w/o silicone sealant for adjustment. After lateral adjustment is established, I then apply a thick layer of RTV silicone (silicone sealant) onto the blade mounting plate for the permanent mount. This photo is from the first time I used it, and I put on more than I needed...
(https://www.afterness.com/skating/images/silicon_goobered_sml.jpg)
The excess squeezes out when tightening screws...
(https://www.afterness.com/skating/images/blade_mtd_squish_sml.jpg)
I remove the excess, then smooth it with a damp finger around the edges and over holes, but the sealant tucked deeper in holes remains there to prevent water penetration. The sealant is paper-thin under the blade mount as most of it is squeezed out around the edges and through mounting holes.
Here is the same boot/blade after a couple of years skating on it. The silicone chamfer around the edge is still intact in this photo, but it will eventually break away - especially where it was spread thin across the sole. I suspect that the Sno Seal reduces its adhesion to leather. I didn't try to replace it because the remaining thin "gasket" layer between blade mount and boot greatly inhibits water by itself, fortified by occasional applications of Sno Seal.
(https://www.afterness.com/skating/images/bevel_boot.jpg)
I skated on these from 2007 to 2019 after which I wanted to change blades to experiment. After I removed the original Coronation Aces, I mounted the following for experiments...
1. Another new pair of Aces
2. MK Pros
3. Jackson synchro blades
4. Eclipse dance blades
5. Gold Seals
6. Pattern 99s
The bottom of the boot looks like swiss-cheese after all the mounting holes, but still has structural integrity.
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Thanks, Bill!
It's pretty clear that your silicone adheres better than mine did. I will have to look for the 3M 847 and give it a try.
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Thanks, Bill!
It's pretty clear that your silicone adheres better than mine did. I will have to look for the 3M 847 and give it a try.
I think you got Bill's post mixed up with mine. My post linked to 3M 847. It is not a silicone-based glue. It is an industrial rubber cement.
It's also not a compound to be used as a filler under the mounting plates as Bill does with silicone.
If you have leather soles and heels, you can apply the cement directly into the holes if you wish for extra adhesion. If you have synthetic soles and heels, however, I would first test the cement for undue attack (from the solvents) before applying it directly to holes. Otherwise, applying the cement to the screw itself and letting the solvents evaporate before installation (as I described above) still works fairly well.
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Merci pour vos réponses à tous car je pensais qu'on allé me prendre pour un fou!
bill's: en France j'ai du mal à trouver tes produits.
tstop4me: merci pour ton conseil de colle, car je pense que c'est cela qu'il me faut pour resserer petit à petit les nouvelles lames sur des nouvelles chaussures (wifa).
J'ai eu du mal aussi à le trouver, mais je l'ai commandé et il me tarde de l'essayer!!
Thank you for your answers to all because I thought that one went to take me for a madman!
bill's: in France I have trouble finding your products.
tstop4me: thank you for your glue advice, because I think that's what I need to gradually tighten the new blades on new shoes (wifa).
I also had trouble finding it, but I ordered it and I can't wait to try it!!
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I did forget to mention that I haven't mount blades for years to boots which would not have any protective layer on sole. As the boots what I dealing does have all some kind of protective layer already from the factory, I do not need to make similar snow-seal treatment as you are doing. So I am looking some solution to seal holes what I need to make when I mount blades. Its however true that If I could remove all gaps between sole plate and boot sole, water does not have any hiding places. Even the boot soles would have protective layer, there is humidity and bacteria grow or something similar under the blade.
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I think you got Bill's post mixed up with mine. My post linked to 3M 847. It is not a silicone-based glue. It is an industrial rubber cement.
It's also not a compound to be used as a filler under the mounting plates as Bill does with silicone.
Yikes, thanks so much for pointing that out! I still would like to try it for screws, though.
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I start by applying SnoSeal with a heat gun until the leather has saturated. The leather usually gets considerably darker, but to me it looks nice (not so dry and thirsty). The heated sole will soak up the SnoSeal for quite awhile--I treat one sole, then the other, and go back and forth until I feel like they are done (probably at least 10 times, sometimes more). The last coat of SnoSeal should be applied so it does not all soak in but leaves a little film on the surface. This can be polished with a soft cloth to act as a finish coat. Then I spread a layer of SnoSeal on the soles where the sole plates are going to sit, but leaving a 5mm-ish circle around the screw holes so I can insert the screws without coating them with SnoSeal. I line the blades up and tighten the screws. SnoSeal will be squished out around the edges and at the center of the blade (unless they have solid sole plates), as well as out of the other screw holes. This is a good sign that there is a nice layer of SnoSeal between the sole plate and the sole. I wipe off the excess but I leave a little in each of the empty screw holes to keep water out.
Have you installed permanent plugs on the soles and heels of boots that have been heavily treated with SnoSeal? With leather soles and heels, when I need to permanently plug an old screw hole, I drill out the hole and use steel-filled epoxy to attach a plug cut from wood dowel rod. I can re-drill in or near the plug and re-install a screw if needed. Works reliably even if I re-plug the hole multiple times. I don't know how deep the SnoSeal penetrates when multiple coats are applied with heat. But I've avoided it because I've been concerned that the wax would interfere with the adhesion of the epoxy. Do you have any experience here?
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I plug holes with a combination of Kwik-Wood epoxy putty and wood dowels in leather soles. Works great. I have never had a problem in boots where SnoSeal has been applied.
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Thanks. That's good to know.
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cela fait un moment que je cherchais le produit pour boucher les anciens trous.
Biensur je ne trouve pas votre produit, et je pense que celui là s'approche de votre produit.:https://www.leroymerlin.fr/produits/peinture-droguerie/restauration-et-relooking-de-meuble/reparation-du-bois/mastic-bois/mastic-epoxy-sinto-bois-clair-350-g-69192746.html
Vous pourriez me confirmer?
Merci pour vos précieux conseil... ou vboire petit secret?
I have been looking for the product to plug the old holes for a while.
Of course I can't find your product, and I think that the attached one is close to your product.
Could you confirm for me?
Thank you for your precious advice... or vdboire little secret?
Could you confirm for me?
Thank you for your precious advice... or your little secrets?
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Just so that you know, I was unable to view the web page. It was blocked for me because of location.
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excuse me:
https://www.leroymerlin.fr/produits/peinture-droguerie/restauration-et-relooking-de-meuble/reparation-du-bois/mastic-bois/mastic-epoxy-sinto-bois-clair-350-g-69192746.html
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excuse me:
https://www.leroymerlin.fr/produits/peinture-droguerie/restauration-et-relooking-de-meuble/reparation-du-bois/mastic-bois/mastic-epoxy-sinto-bois-clair-350-g-69192746.html
Wrong stuff. Further details from the manufacturer's website: https://www.sinto.fr/produit/bois/reparer-bois/repare-vite-les-bois-casses/
"Multi-usages
La pâte à réparer est idéale pour le bois cassé, fendu ou fortement abîmé et renforce les parties abîmées (fenêtres, escaliers, poutres, terrasses…). Il s’adapte à tous type de bois sapin, chêne, teck…et toutes finitions (vernis, peinture, lasure). Enfin, le Répare vite bois cassés se ponce, se perce et se peint.
Simple d’utilisation
Le Répare vite se travaille en 3 à 4 min avec une prise rapide. Simple à poser, le Repare vite bois cassés s’utilise comme de la pâte à modeler et devient inaltérable."
Fed into Google Translate, we get:
"Multi-purpose
The repair paste is ideal for broken, split or heavily damaged wood and reinforces damaged parts (windows, stairs, beams, terraces, etc.). It adapts to all types of fir wood, oak, teak… and all finishes (varnish, paint, stain). Finally, the Quickly repair broken wood can be sanded, drilled and painted.
Easy to use
Quick Repair works in 3 to 4 minutes with a quick setting. Simple to apply, the Repair quickly broken wood is used like modeling clay and becomes unalterable."
So, this is a wood epoxy putty, not a silicone glue.
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If you go to amazon.fr and enter "RTV Silicone Glue", you will get many entries; e.g.,
https://www.amazon.fr/Superflex-transparent-Silicone-Adhesive-908570/dp/B0002BBX3U/ref=sr_1_8?__mk_fr_FR=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=2FENZN6KTZGKQ&keywords=rtv+silicone+glue&qid=1662689932&sprefix=rtv+silicone+glue%2Caps%2C194&sr=8-8
https://www.amazon.fr/Permatex-85913-6PK-Silicone-adh%C3%A9sif-Powerbead/dp/B0002UEPVI/ref=sr_1_9?__mk_fr_FR=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=2FENZN6KTZGKQ&keywords=rtv+silicone+glue&qid=1662690073&sprefix=rtv+silicone+glue%2Caps%2C194&sr=8-9
Equivalent European sourced products would likely be less expensive.
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I think Marc was looking for something to plug holes in the soles with, so the epoxy product would be a good choice for that use.
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tstop4me
oui, supersharp a raison. pour coller les vis pour qu'il ne devissent pas je viens de recevoir le 3m 847 que je vais essayer de ce pas.
Mais le produit epoxy c'était pour reboucher les trous des anciennes vis. Je cherche quelque chose qui se rapproche du mastic époxy Kwik-Wood de supersharp.
J'ai déjà essayer de la colle à bois + un morceau de bois (accacia) mais je pense pas que cela soit le mieux. Je sais qu'il y en a qui font avec des petits morceaux de cuir + colle gorilla.
C'est pour cela qu'il me faudrait trouver l'équivalent du mastic époxy Kwik-Wood pour la prochaine fois.
Je ne vous remercierai jamais assez car vous êtes mes seuls copains avec qui je peux échanger sur tout çà, et je me sens tout seul dans mon sud ouest de la France.
stop4me
yes, supersharp is right. to glue the screws so that they do not unscrew I have just received the 3m 847 which I am going to try now.
But the epoxy product was to fill in the holes of the old screws. I'm looking for something close to supersharp's Kwik-Wood Epoxy Putty.
I've already tried wood glue + a piece of wood (accacia) but I don't think that's the best. I know there are some that make with small pieces of leather + gorilla glue.
That's why I would have to find the equivalent of Kwik-Wood epoxy putty for next time.
I will never thank you enough because you are my only friends with whom I can talk about all this, and I feel all alone in my south west of France.
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tstop4me
oui, supersharp a raison. pour coller les vis pour qu'il ne devissent pas je viens de recevoir le 3m 847 que je vais essayer de ce pas.
Mais le produit epoxy c'était pour reboucher les trous des anciennes vis. Je cherche quelque chose qui se rapproche du mastic époxy Kwik-Wood de supersharp.
J'ai déjà essayer de la colle à bois + un morceau de bois (accacia) mais je pense pas que cela soit le mieux. Je sais qu'il y en a qui font avec des petits morceaux de cuir + colle gorilla.
C'est pour cela qu'il me faudrait trouver l'équivalent du mastic époxy Kwik-Wood pour la prochaine fois.
Je ne vous remercierai jamais assez car vous êtes mes seuls copains avec qui je peux échanger sur tout çà, et je me sens tout seul dans mon sud ouest de la France.
stop4me
yes, supersharp is right. to glue the screws so that they do not unscrew I have just received the 3m 847 which I am going to try now.
But the epoxy product was to fill in the holes of the old screws. I'm looking for something close to supersharp's Kwik-Wood Epoxy Putty.
I've already tried wood glue + a piece of wood (accacia) but I don't think that's the best. I know there are some that make with small pieces of leather + gorilla glue.
That's why I would have to find the equivalent of Kwik-Wood epoxy putty for next time.
I will never thank you enough because you are my only friends with whom I can talk about all this, and I feel all alone in my south west of France.
Oh, sorry. I thought you were still looking for silicone glue.
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Je ne vous remercierai jamais assez car vous êtes mes seuls copains avec qui je peux échanger sur tout çà, et je me sens tout seul dans mon sud ouest de la France.
oui, supersharp a raison. pour coller les vis pour qu'il ne devissent pas je viens de recevoir le 3m 847 que je vais essayer de ce pas.
Mais le produit epoxy c'était pour reboucher les trous des anciennes vis. Je cherche quelque chose qui se rapproche du mastic époxy Kwik-Wood de supersharp.
J'ai déjà essayer de la colle à bois + un morceau de bois (accacia) mais je pense pas que cela soit le mieux. Je sais qu'il y en a qui font avec des petits morceaux de cuir + colle gorilla.
C'est pour cela qu'il me faudrait trouver l'équivalent du mastic époxy Kwik-Wood pour la prochaine fois.
I will never thank you enough because you are my only friends with whom I can talk about all this, and I feel all alone in my south west of France.
Many of us feel exactly the same, Marc. I feel so fortunate to have found this group of technically-minded people with this shared interest after years of working alone. I love knowing that at least in a few places scattered around the globe, there are other sharpeners facing the same obstacles and seeking to find actual solutions instead of just calling mediocre work “good enough”.
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Today I tried first time to put Permatex gasket cement to loosened screws. Lets see how it works.
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de mon côté, j'ai mis le 3m 847 samedi.
Et dimanche ma fille a patiné et çà l'air de bien fonctionner! pas de vis déssersées.
a suivre...
Par contre, c'est un peu long à faire
on my side, I put the 3m 847 on Saturday.
And on Sunday my daughter skated and it seems to work well! no loose screws.
to be continued...
On the other hand, it is a bit long to do
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2 ème essais ce matin, et après donc 2x 1h de patinage, les vis tiennent super bien avec 3 m 847.
Tstop4me, merci encore beaucoup pour ce précieux conseils!
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Happy daughter, happy dad. You're very welcome.
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In my web journey this morning, I noticed that Edea now has a page of items for skate techs:
https://edeaskates.com/en/ice/accessories/tech/
The "Carbon Fiber Plugs" are interesting. I thought they were "fix its" for new blades on old skates, but apparently, they're to fill unused holes.
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The "Carbon Fiber Plugs" are interesting. I thought they were "fix its" for new blades on old skates, but apparently, they're to fill unused holes.
<<Emphasis added>> Not sure what you mean by this. The hi-tech equivalent of toothpicks that you stick into a screw hole that's been stripped?
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In my web journey this morning, I noticed that Edea now has a page of items for skate techs:
https://edeaskates.com/en/ice/accessories/tech/
The "Carbon Fiber Plugs" are interesting. I thought they were "fix its" for new blades on old skates, but apparently, they're to fill unused holes.
Hi,
They are used for putting different blades on previously mounted Edea's. They are used to fill the existing holes that don't line up with the holes of the new blades. Some holes will match and you can re-use them.
A note on Edea screws, note they do sell machine t-nuts and screws for mounting when using roller frames on their boots. Such screws and nuts may be useful when having trouble with a mounting.
I have also found not a lot of support for blade mounting on Edea's as their soles are very rounded at the edges leaving large gaps.
I've tried skating in them too and wonder what kind of feet they are supposed to fit. I had immediate drastic pronation on one foot that I never had on any of the other boot brands that I have used (and I've tried a lot!)
:-)