I'm not trying to push you away. Just saying that other forums have more people who know about hockey. So I would at least suggest you try hockey forums too, and not try to learn everything here. Some of the ideas here might help - but you might want ideas from hockey people too.
E.g., and this is just from me, who doesn't play hockey: Hockey players worry a lot about the position of the balance point (the flatest rocker) in the center, whose position is ideally something like a mm or two back, I think, for defensive players, who mostly skate backwards, relative to that for offensive players, who mostly skate forwards. Hockey players also want a fairly flat profile in the center, for better glide, stopping and acceleration - and the ideal rocker profile is, according to Blademaster, different for American NHL size rinks (I think typically 9' - 13' in the center) than for European/Olympic size rinks (some fast hockey Olympic rink players prefer an infinite rocker - completely flat - in the center), because Olympic size rinks give you more room to reach high speeds. Yet hockey players need a gradual transition to more rocker curvature at the ends, to do faster turns, and maybe for other maneuvers. Which in turn must mean there are a lot of concerns with balance while using those ends, which must in turn modify the ideal rocker profiles at the ends. Some hockey turns are done in which the end of one skate drags on the ice, which might also change that ideal profile. Compare this to figure skating rocker profiles, which are constant over most of the blade, but transition through an abrupt sweet spot to a "spin rocker" radius up front - and some blades have two sweet spots up front. Yet "beginner" figure skating blades are sometimes made with somewhat hockey-like rocker profiles - flatter in the center, more curvature at the ends, especially up front.
Hockey players need their edges to be quite durable, for many reasons. They couldn't care less about making clean pretty edges, with no noise or snow, which is a very big deal in figure skating. They need much stronger stops and reversals. They are constantly walking or hopping quickly on and off the ice, without blade guards. Unlike figure skating, many hockey jumps are sideways - I have no idea what that means for your edges.
Most hockey players use inside more than outside edges, which might modify how you want to sharpen. Perhaps that means you start with a longer inside edge? I haven't found any references that say that, and those I have found say otherwise, but it would make sense. Many hockey referees use outside more than inside, to jump out of the way faster, so a some refs ask techs for longer outside edges.
One fairly popular skate tech told me that even the materials can be different - some hockey skaters prefer softer steel blades, because they can initially take a sharper edge, even though that edge wears out faster. (I don't quite understand why softer steel can take a sharper edge. Do hard edges chip or break off when abraded?) And blade rust is a less of a concern, if like some hockey players, you have to replace your blades every few months. Perhaps keeping the sides of your blade smooth, by lubrication while sharpening, might be a lost cause, if other skaters are constantly smashing into your blades? - I'm not sure. Plus, you need to straighten your blades out after such collisions.
Given all these differences, and others that must exist that I don't know about, it would be hard for most figure skaters to completely understand all the fine points and requirements of sharpening for hockey.
With regard to sharpening equipment, hand tools can be a lot cheaper, smaller, and lighter (a small fraction of a pound) than power tools, and you don't need A/C power - if you are willing to learn how to use them. E.g., if you can live with .5" ROH, I would suggest you start with the old Berghman skate sharpeners, available for as little as $5 used on eBay (the 1950's models ones are more expensive, but have more durable stones than the older ones), combined with a flat stone for re-pointing burrs or deburring. So what if it takes you several minutes / skate to do the job? It's not like you are sharpening for your whole team. It's a major convenience to be able to fit your equipment in your skate bag. The stones on the Berghmans aren't fine enough grain to give an extreme super-sharp foil edge, but they can be at least as sharp as what ordinary pro shops will give, and fine grain stones work slower. Besides, I'm not sure you want a super-sharp foil edge for hockey, because it isn't as durable. (Except for the constraint of only having been made for .5" ROH, and stone grain and durability, Bergman sharpeners were, IMO, a much better design than modern Pro-Filers.)
You can, BTW, find hockey blades with replaceable edges. The runners stay in place, but somehow the edge slides on and off. I don't know exactly how that works, or how well. But I don't think they need sharpening, if you replace them often enough.