First of all, I think retying your laces once/session is not an overwhelming problem. I also think that long-term durability is not that important, because laces are cheap enough not be matter. But apparently, these things bother you. So...
Edea advocates a different lacing pattern, sometimes called the Russian lacing pattern:
http://ice.edeaskates.com/en/skaters-tips/lacing-properly/The idea is that when you install the laces, you insert the ends from the outside (i.e., on top of the boot), and pull them through on the inside (underneath the part that covers the tongue. Then you cross over to the other side, and insert the end on the outside of that side.
Most people install boot and other shoe laces the other way - they insert the ends from underneath - on the bottom - and pull through on top.
It isn't immediately obvious that there is a difference. But there is a huge difference. Edea's lacing pattern locks the lace tight more strongly (so it can't slip back as easily), by placing more pressure on the lace, between the tongue and the outer part of the boot.
So the Russian lacing pattern lets you put a lot more tension on the lace, including at the places the lace bends sharply (which, at least in climbing rope, are the places where rope and rope-like structures tend to fail), because it doesn't slip backwards when you release the tension to switch hand positions to lace the next level.
But it almost certainly means that the lace wears out more easily, and stretches more easily, because of the increased tension, particularly, as I said, at the points where the lace bends sharply, and the increased abrasion on the part of the lace that lies between the tongue and the outer boot.
In addition, it is much harder to loosen the laces, when you want to take the boots off. If you tie it tight in the Russian lacing pattern, you have to grab and pull the lace quite strongly to loosen them.
On Edea's site, a video by Max Aaron advocates this lacing pattern, though he thinks you shouldn't tie too tightly. However, some people on this forum have claimed you need to tie Edeas more tightly than other boots, because the uppers are generally made of synthetic materials that don't conform to the foot as easily as leather does. In addition, it is harder to heat-mold Edeas precisely to the shape of your foot than boots which are designed to be put into an oven for heat molding, so you may need to tie more tightly to compensate for a slight misfit.
I have noticed that blended cotton/nylon laces need to be re-tightened, where as pure cotton laces don't. I believe the nylon component gradually stretches. Perhaps Edea's laces include a stretchable synthetic component, like nylon? I don't know.
So, in summary, I suggest the frequent failures of your laces and occasional re-tightening may be due to a combination of things:
(1) The greater lace tension needed to make Edea's synthetic uppers conform to the foot.
(2) The greater tension the Russian lacing pattern lets you place on the laces, especially at sharp bends.
(3) The extra abrasion on the lace when you loosen it that the Russian lacing pattern entails.
(4) Perhaps you let the lace twist. I believe that twisted flat lace fails more quickly than untwisted flat lace.
(5) Perhaps Edea's laces contain a stretchable nylon component? I have no idea. However, I don't know how this affects long-term durability, as that was never my prime concern.
I can't prove any of this. It is just my theories. But you could try going back to the usual lacing pattern - and also make sure your lace doesn't twist. If you think Edea's laces contain a stretchable nylon, you could try pure cotton laces.
P.S.
I experimented with the Russian lacing pattern, and gave up on it, because I found it much harder to loosen the laces when I wanted to take my feet out.
I found other ways to tie laces tight:
(1) I wrap the lace around my hands, which lets me pull a lot harder, and does not require my fingers to place huge pressures on the lace, making it easier to tie tightly without cutting into my fingers.
(2) To tighten, I pull straight across, instead of up. This tightens much more efficiently, because it pulls through the hole with less resistance, because there is no bend in the lace at the hole. I have had trouble convincing people it is true, but I'm quite sure it is. In addition, it creates much less wear on the lace. Pulling up makes no sense at all.
(3) I played with different lace materials. As I said, I never had to re-tighten pure cotton laces, but blended cotton/nylon lace did have to be re-tightened.
(4) I stopped using flat lace. Flat lace has a greater tendency to twist, which increases the pressure on your hand and/or fingers. (In addition, flat lace looks awful when it twists - but that is off-topic.) Round cord is MUCH easier on your hands and fingers.
It is true that round lace tends to slip back in the holes more easily - but if you pick a lace diameter that is just large enough not to slip backwards in the holes of your boot (3 mm for my boots), that isn't a major problem.
BTW, I use a good quality (PMI brand) round cord, not the junk you find in a dollar store. Specifically, I use stuff from a moderately high end camping good store:
https://www.rei.com/product/799630/pmi-3mm-utility-cord-package-of-50-ft (BTW, I bought the bright orange orange color, which contrasts very nicely with my black boots, but that is irrelevant to the current discussion.)
($5/50 feet is fairly reasonable. If you need 120 inch laces, that is 20 feet between them - you could make two and a half pairs out of $5 of this cord. I doubt the skate boot laces you currently buy from your pro shop are any cheaper.)
Like a climbing rope, this cord has a kernmantle construction: solid straight nylon core, surrounded by a polyester weave "mantle". That makes it much more durable. Ordinary flat laces and cheap ropes do not have a similar structure, so if the outer layers abrade, all the strands break and the lace falls apart.
This cord has a breaking strength of 400 pounds, which is a lot more tension than I need for laces. It is possible there are even higher quality cords, but this is good enough for me.
To make then stiff ends to thread through the boot holes, I cut off the outer polyester mantle from the ends, and melt and roll the nylon ends (don't use your fingers - hot! I do this near water, so if the cord catches fire when I melt it, I can put it out. I may have wrapped the ends in electrical tape, to keep them smooth and thin, and removed the tape when it was cool.
I think I have used this cord for about a couple years or so now. It shows no sign of wear whatsoever, not even on the outer mantle. I am completely pleased with it. I love the Halloween color combo too, and have received many complements and questions on it - though the complements and questions are probably by people interested in the look, not the function.
In contrast, I had to replace all-cotton flat laces every two or three years, even though I didn't use the Russian lacing pattern, and I was careful not to let the laces twist. As I said, replacing the laces that often doesn't bother me. But it seems that durability matters to the o.p., so I mention it anyway.
I can't explain why I don't have to re-tighten the utility cord, since the core is nylon. Perhaps it is a different nylon? But I don't.
(4) I tie a double knot, which doesn't slip as easily.
(5) I do NOT tie the laces behind the boots to take up the extra lace. If I have extra lace, I either tie a triple knot, or, better, I go back down again, pulling the cord around the hooks a second time - which increases net tension on the boot a lot, and therefore creates a snugger fit. If you tie behind the boots, then when you bend point or flex your ankle, the boot bends a little with your foot, and it stretches the lace. (Hockey players can get away with it, because they use extremely stiff boots, which hardly bend at all.)
(6) In the past, I used a lace pulling hook, something that Don Klingbeil showed me, to get laces very tight. (In a pinch, when I couldn't find a hook, I used a needle nosed pliers, though that is very hard on the laces, so I don't advise it.)
By using the various tricks mentioned above, I found I don't need the lace pulling hook any more - though I think it still has a place with people who have trouble manipulating their hands and fingers - e.g., who have arthritis. In addition, I ended up deciding I don't need the extreme tension a lace-pulling hook can give me. Sufficiently stiff boots make extreme tightness unnecessary. This places me against the advice of many very expert people, but I think that if you fit a boot right to your foot, you don't need to worry about over-booting, unless it makes the boots too heavy. (Of course, if you like Edea, it is possible weight is very important to you, and my feelings don't apply to you.)
P.S. The hockey community has found a different solution to laces that slip backwards when you switch hand positions. They mostly use flat laces, but they use waxed laces, which are a little stiffer, so they don't slip as easily. I haven't tried that. I have no idea what affect wax has on long term durability. I haven't seen any waxed laces that fit in figure skate boot holes, but perhaps they exist.