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41
The Pro Shop / Re: Pro-Filer Redirects to Wissota
« Last post by Query on February 25, 2024, 11:07:09 AM »
According to my understanding in this thread we have talked about chromed areas scratching, but I might have understood wrongly.
No, not the chrome plated area, unless you wear down your blades a lot more than most people do before replacing them. Only the part of the blade that touches the ice matters.

By the time the chrome plate touches, you have had to trim off so much of the toe pick, that it's forward/back location has changed significantly. Of course at that point you could remount the blades a bit forwards or back, but that effectively changes the length of the blade, significantly too. And you are less high off the ice, so it changes that characteristic of the blades too. I like to extend blade life as much as I reasonably can, but long before that time I think it makes sense to just replace the blades.

I also believe that if you did keep sharpening worn blades to the point the part of the sides of the blade that touches the ice are chrome plated, you wouldn't get very good edges, because the Chrome isn't hard, and would flake off - but tstop4me suggested that might be wrong.

Have you played more with your 3D printed sharpening tool? how does it compare in edge quality to your powered sharpening machines?

I guess you had to design it for one grit and brand sandpaper, since different grits and brands have different thicknesses.
42
The Pro Shop / Re: Edea soles - removing / reinstalling blades
« Last post by Query on February 25, 2024, 09:51:00 AM »
The stripping I was referring to was of the heads, not the threads.

The bolts you show have circular heads, which you can't put a wrench on to turn them. So they probably have one of the following:

1. Small hex key holes, that you fit small hex keys in. These strip very easily with ordinary hand strength.

At least that is my experience with the soft aluminum bolts that were used to hold the runners on in the old Matrix 1 blades. It helps if you find high quality hex keys that exactly fit the holes - e.g., if you initially need to use a hammer to lightly tap the key in. (Don't use the key for anything else than this!) Then, after a few uses, the holes wear a bit bigger, and you can no longer insert the keys without much play - and it is that play that causes the holes to strip. Then you find various cheap hex key sets, some of which will happen to have slightly too large keys, and you use them. Finally, when the holes have too much play to be used without stripping the bolts (and if you let it go too long, you need special tools to remove them), you need to replace the bolts.

2. Phillips heads. Even if you use exactly the right size Phillips head screwdriver (hint: good quality screwdrivers work a lot better here.), and press down hard as you turn, Phillips heads slip a little against the screwdriver bit, and eventually slip, and very soon strip the head. I know engineers often claim Phillips heads are great, because you can insert the screwdriver in a few tenths of a second faster than anything else, but to me, they will always be a sign of shoddy workmanship.

3. Slotted heads. Much better than Phillips, at least if you can find one of exactly the right size, and once again press down hard as you turn, but they eventually strip too.

4. Torx heads. Likewise. Though these strip slower than the 3 above, but they aren't all that common. So it isn't likely that the roller bolts use them. And like hex keys, they are too small, and eventually strip too.

5. Tamper resistant heads, that require a weird shape screwdriver tip. These never seem to be well designed against slippage, and it is hard to replace the screwdriver or screwdriver tip. Yuck.

I think a stainless steel hex headed bolt really is best, provided there is space to use a socket wrench. A square headed bolt works about as well - but it is harder to find socket wrenches that fit them.

That said, you have to use what is available.

43
The Pro Shop / Re: Edea soles - removing / reinstalling blades
« Last post by NiceIce on February 24, 2024, 05:19:46 PM »
You could use a flat head bolt certainly,

That is what I've seen supplied for quad wheel skaters:  https://www.rollernco.com/en/screws-quads/2043-vis-platine-21mm-x4-powerslide-4040333271520.html

But a T-Nut would allow one to use a flat head screw to fit the countersunk holes in a blade.

Using hand tools, e.g. nut driver, screwdriver, etc, should generally prevent stripping of machine threaded screws as most people's hands are not that strong.

However, I certainly wouldn't want to be taking my blades off all the time and sending them away!  I guess they don't have a good local sharpener.  That person could try to sharpen their own, but maybe they would still prefer their own skate tech to do them and don't mind the whole process.

Many people are pretty bad with their hands.  Med schools are supposedly having a hard time with new surgical students because they have no fine hand skills.  Used to be in school, scouts, hobbies, kids did tons with their hands that develop strength and skill (sewing, carving, pottery, crafting, cutting, wood shop, metal shop, etc etc) but just don't do that much anymore.


M





44
The Pro Shop / Re: Edea soles - removing / reinstalling blades
« Last post by Query on February 24, 2024, 04:28:15 PM »
Edea does make machine threaded screw sets that attach from the inside.  They make these for quad wheeled skaters.

Edit:  I know I saw those online once at a quad skate shop in Florida, but I can't find them now.  However quad shops do offer special flat head machine screws that use a washer and nut on the outside.  This would work but look a bit strange.

Those hurricane nuts - I think also called T nuts -- would work fine.  Just using them in the heels would be a challenge.

Why couldn't you use any flat-top head bolt of the right length, plus an appropriate nut?

If I remember right, a skater who needed to change her blades frequently (I think she had been a show skater, and frequently had to skate on "artificial" plastic ice, which is more abrasive) once told me that she had used bolts and nuts to secure blades. But she used thin nuts - I thought on the inside not outside of the boot.

And years ago (before Edea was popular) a person who ran a skate shop told me roller skates often attached the chassis (is that the right word??) that holds the wheels using bolts and nuts - again using thin nuts.

But I haven't done it, or seen it done. Maybe they really did put the bolt on the inside?

Regardless, if, like most blades, the holes are countersunk, I assume the bolt or nut on the outside should be countersunk too, so it fits right and locks the blade in place. And for both nuts and bolts, I presume stainless steel is much less likely to rust than galvanized steel.

There are a lot of Youtube videos about people who had trouble removing roller or inline mounting bolts, because they stripped the head. As with any screw or nut, you can strip the head if you do tighten or loosen it wrong, e.g., with a tool that doesn't quite fit, which makes them much harder to remove - though there are ways to do it - most of which involve buying extra tools. In addition, hex and square head bolts are less likely to strip then hex key driven bolts. That's especially important if you are going to do this so often.

P.S. There are many threads on this site about sharpening your own blades. If you have the right tools, they fit your blades, and you have some degree of mechanical intuition, you can learn how. Do I remember that you participated in some of those threads?
45
The Pro Shop / Re: Edea soles - removing / reinstalling blades
« Last post by NiceIce on February 24, 2024, 11:44:49 AM »
Hi,

It can be done, but it would be very important to have the screw's threads go exactly into the previously made threads.  Otherwise the screws would constantly be tapping new holes and would soon strip out the hole.  This skater must be aware of this and being very careful.  Normally the trick is to lightly place the tip of the screw in place and then turn it in the reverse direction until you can feel the screw fall into the hole as the last thread edge falls into the proper place, then screw in making sure it feels like it is not cutting new threads (easier to do than to explain).   It's only recommended to do this with a hand screwdriver -- no power tools.

Edea does make machine threaded screw sets that attach from the inside.  They make these for quad wheeled skaters.

Edit:  I know I saw those online once at a quad skate shop in Florida, but I can't find them now.  However quad shops do offer special flat head machine screws that use a washer and nut on the outside.  This would work but look a bit strange.

Those hurricane nuts - I think also called T nuts -- would work fine.  Just using them in the heels would be a challenge.

M.
46
The Pro Shop / Re: Edea soles - removing / reinstalling blades
« Last post by tstop4me on February 24, 2024, 08:29:56 AM »
When they were telling me I immediately wondered if there was a risk of stripping the threads, or of enlarging the holes by not positioning the screws in the exact same position every time. It's interesting that reading the posts here there is a risk, but it can work.

Yes, you've hit the nail on the head (to use an incorrect metaphor).  You do have one existence proof that it can be done.  But a key point to emphasize is that the screws are self-tapping.  So not only do the screws need to be positioned, oriented, and engaged carefully each time, they also need to be carefully torqued down in the same sequence to maintain proper positioning, orientation, and engagement.  Otherwise, a screw will simply start cutting a new thread, leading to a damaged hole.
47
The Pro Shop / Re: Edea soles - removing / reinstalling blades
« Last post by Christy on February 23, 2024, 08:54:50 PM »
Once screws are placed in the "permanent mounting holes", then it's easy to remove then replace the blades without changing their position on the sole.

However, removing then replacing screws that often in soles, whether plastic or leather, is fraught with peril. One small over-tighten slip can strip the threads in the sole. That leads to a lot of work to get back on the ice. Over time, the threads themselves will weaken too. Removing/replacing screws every 20 hours would make me nervous.

When they were telling me I immediately wondered if there was a risk of stripping the threads, or of enlarging the holes by not positioning the screws in the exact same position every time. It's interesting that reading the posts here there is a risk, but it can work.
48
The Pro Shop / Re: Location of blade on sole
« Last post by tstop4me on February 23, 2024, 05:05:01 PM »
You're welcome.  Just make sure your tech handles permanent plugs for your boots.  Not all do.
49
The Pro Shop / Re: Location of blade on sole
« Last post by Christy on February 23, 2024, 04:41:43 PM »
I'll give you a simplified perspective.  If you want to play around with your equipment, there's no harm in doing so, as long as the changes you make can be readily undone.  So if you simply want to change the placement or orientation of your blade relative to the boot for whatever reason, go ahead and try it.  It doesn't matter what you define as the rocker, sweet spot, or anything else.

Depending on how close the new mounting holes are to the old mounting holes, you might need to plug the old holes first.  If the new mount doesn't work out, again you might need to plug a set of existing holes before drilling new ones.  I highly recommend permanent plugs cemented in with suitable adhesive, not simply pounded in.

On the other hand, I'd be really, really leery of changes such as:

Once you've trimmed the drag pick, it can't be readily undone (in the event that what you consider to be the sweet spot does depend on the height of the drag pick; or in the event that the height of the drag pick affects something else).

Thank you so much, and don't worry, there's no way I'm planning to change the blade in any way!
50
I hope you take first place! :)

Haha, If I don’t that would be a bit sad if I’m the only one in the category.   ;D ;D ;D
I would love to have some others along with me, and my biggest goal is to look prettier (movements) than last season with my silly airplane arms.   ;D

I had to email the club and ask for the requirements, because I couldn’t for the life of me find them to make sure I have things correct for silver there.  Google gets me information, but I can’t be sure it is correct for that particular event.  It’s so confusing!

I’m excited right now, because my husband just agreed that I can sign up for Oberstdorf this year!  I’m so much more motivated now!  It’s a long drive but straight down one autobahn from us, very simple, and he is interested to sight see.   :) :) :)

I’m in the city for two more days before the boot appointment than I realised, so I have decided to bring my current pair for sure so I can skate a bit at either Wollman, Manhattan West, or World Ice.  Depending on plans with friends and family perhaps all three, haha.  Then freestyle at City Ice Pavillion to see how the new boots and blades feel. 
I’ve never been to Wollman but might meet up with a skating buddy who loves the atmosphere.  It’s more of a trek for me though.  World Ice is walking distance, and Manhattan West is right outside the building that some good friends live in, so those are most likely.  I can’t wait!
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