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The Pro Shop / Re: Rust removal from blades - experiments
« Last post by Query on August 01, 2017, 11:32:39 PM »
BTW, Bar Keeper's friend is abrasive. says


mineral abrasive, oxalic acid, surfactant, water-softening agent

Interestingly enough it only says to use it on stainless steel. It doesn't explicitly mention non-stainless steel.

I have used it on stainless steel cookware. Much better than Ajax and Comet, because they have a larger grain size, which leaves obvious scratches, that bacteria could get into. It's great stuff for removing stains and slight burns from stainless steel from pots and pans.

Be careful not to rub or scrape at the edges, if you can - I think anything like this could dull them a bit.

Did you try vinegar? As a mild acid, it does react with rust, and remove the oxygen, to an extent. But, because it isn't an abrasive, it may not leave a smooth surface, so at least on cookware, I like Bar Keeper's friend better.
The Pro Shop / Re: Vik-max skates: heard of them?
« Last post by Query on August 01, 2017, 11:11:45 PM »
If they're that soft, they could be Patch skates!

"Patch" means school figures, right? Why are soft skates better for Patch?
The Pro Shop / Re: Possible Rust on Ultima Aspire Blades
« Last post by Query on August 01, 2017, 11:06:29 PM »
If tstop4me is right, and water condensation on the still-cold blades, even if dried, is an issue, which makes sense, I think putting oil on them would fix the problem - it should create a "vapor barrier".

OTOH, what I do, drying the blades, then leaving the blades uncovered in the car, will also fix the problem - especially in the summer. Of course, I should still take the boots out of the car once I get home - because boots may re-heat-mold to the wrong shape if they get too hot.

I wonder why MK and Wilson upper level blades don't use a "high carbon stainless steel", like the Ultima Matrix series, and, I think, Paramount blades do, instead of just "high carbon steel". While stainless isn't perfect, it reduces the rust problems significantly, and my own experience is that the edges last longer - though in fairness, the highest level non-stainless blades I use were Wilson Coronation Ace - only an intermediate level blade.

The stainless alloys Ultima Matrix uses reach a Rockwell hardness of about 60 at the edge - which, if my source is correct, is also about what the edges of the high end "high carbon steel" blades made by MK and Wilson are hardened to. (In theory non-stainless steels can be hardened more, but presumably it would become too brittle, so they don't.) Is using stainless alloys a significant fraction of the cost, or is it harder to use at the factory?

(I get why Ultima only uses stainless in the Matrix line - it gives people an extra reason, on top of lower weight, to go to that high priced line instead of the cheaper lines.)

BTW, I am not suggesting the o.p. should go to the extra expense of getting Matrix line blades - they cost a lot more, and the o.p. doesn't yet know if he/she likes a given intermediate or upper level blade shape. As do the Eclipse titanium line blades, which I assume are also more rust resistant. I only bought Matrix because the older Matrix I model had interchangeable runners, a feature i liked - and I bought enough runners to last the rest of my life, so I have no reason to change.

However, in this tstop4me indicates that at least one Eclipse intermediate blade is also stainless...
The Pro Shop / Re: Possible Rust on Ultima Aspire Blades
« Last post by iskater13 on August 01, 2017, 10:57:12 PM »
Thank you for all the additional suggestions everyone! I had a lesson today and it seems that skating has removed most of the tiny spots in the hollows! I'm still planning on getting them sharpened once I can make it to the pro shop.

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The Pro Shop / Re: Vik-max skates: heard of them?
« Last post by AgnesNitt on August 01, 2017, 07:27:33 PM »
For the skaters here, I took a peek at the Vix-max blades and not onely are the toe picks high (thanks Figurespins) -- THERE"S NO DROP PICK.  If they're that soft, they could be Patch skates!

A tiny drop pick will make it easier for a beginner to stop going forward. The rink rental skates will have the toepicks lower so they use the toepick to cover where the drop pick is on figure skates.
The Pro Shop / Re: Comfortable skating tights
« Last post by sk8lady on August 01, 2017, 07:21:32 PM »
 Thanks all! I never thought of replacing the waistband, so I'll try that and a pair of Nita tights too!
The Pro Shop / Re: Possible Rust on Ultima Aspire Blades
« Last post by AgnesNitt on August 01, 2017, 06:04:51 PM »
Like FigureSpins I also leave my bag open, but I also put a dehumidifier pack in the bag.
The Pro Shop / Re: Help choosing blades
« Last post by tstop4me on August 01, 2017, 04:10:38 PM »
If you are considering the Wilson Coronation Ace, you should also at least consider the Eclipse Aurora.  I wrote a review comparing the two here:

Remember, don't consider just the initial purchase price; also consider the cost of sharpening.  I pay my guy $25/pop.  So a blade that's more expensive initially could actually save you money in the long run if the (initially) more expensive blade requires less frequent sharpening.  About the only thing I like about the Coronation Ace over the Aurora is the smaller spin rocker radius on the Coronation Ace.  If a smaller spin rocker radius is important to you, then go with the Coronation Ace.   I don't have any direct experience with Paramount, Ultima, or other brands, but definitely consider the stainless steel blades on the market.  I really wish Wilson and MK would offer their blades in stainless steel.
The Pro Shop / Re: Riedell Royal for beginners?
« Last post by tstop4me on August 01, 2017, 03:17:29 PM »
I skated with Riedell Royals for ~30 yrs.  I think they were discontinued in the early 2000's when Riedell revamped their whole line.  Prior to that, the Royals were the top freestyle model* in the Riedell line.  That generation of Riedell was very stiff (though the Royals were not as stiff as the Gold Stars, one model down from the Royals).  If the Royals are nearly broken down, they may be OK for a beginner.  If not, they will be way too stiff.

*In another thread, another poster mentioned that in the '80s there was a higher model.  I believe that's right.  It's been a long time, and I probably don't recall the details correctly after all this time, but when I was getting a new pair around then, my skate tech told me Riedell had introduced a new model above the Royals, but it was getting yanked from the market because it was so stiff even very advanced skaters were having a hard time breaking them in.
The Pro Shop / Re: Are my rockers too flat?
« Last post by AspenonIce on August 01, 2017, 02:27:50 PM »
Looks flat to me, but those are recreational blades, so they may have started out with a flat rocker from the factory. 

ETA: Found the blade on Riedell's site tied to the soft rec boot -  I don't think your rocker was damaged.

The Spiral is a recreational skating blade, intended for beginners who just go in circles, stopping and starting.  It's not intended for figure skating, which is why it's a very flat blade (for stability) with a decorative toe pick (very small, up high to prevent tripping.)

If you're an adult, go back to the sharpener and ask them to put a 1/2" radius of hollow on the blades, so you get some grip.  Most sharpeners won't even try to adjust the rocker these days - too many things can go wrong.
Thank you! I figured as much. I've been having touble trying to spin, while my friend (who has better skates) has no issues, and figured it was either too low level blades or the rocker got shaved off during the first sharpening.

I'll just have to hold on until christmas  :(

I will keep the hollow recommendation in mind for next time I get them sharpened. Sadly, they were just done on friday so it'll be a while.

Quick question, would it be a bad idea to try any jumps with these? I'm in basic 5, but can do half of the basic 6 skills already, so the bunny hop will come up soon and don't want to injure myself.

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