« Last post by lutefisk on April 05, 2017, 08:07:17 AM »
Whada expect? She's had way more ice time than you've had!
For your experiment to work, you need a sharpener who checks the calibration of his dressing jig and who dresses his wheel carefully. I grew suspicious of one guy, so I bought a Hollow Depth Indicator (HDI) gauge. I always asked for a 7/16" ROH, but what I got ranged from 7/16" to 9/16". I dropped him. My current guy is more consistent, but to get 7/16", I need to ask for 3/8". Also, some sharpeners hand finish the hollow with a cylindrical or conical honing stone to get rid of chatter marks from power grinding; hand finishing can lead to variations in the final effective ROH.
Well you should keep on skating through the summer whether "figure skating" is allowed or not - it will give you time to work on basic edges and stroking and edges and stroking.
By "figure skating" I'm guessing they mean jumps and spins - but there is a lot more to skating - I would work on turns and edges.
I agree with this too ^. I also lace my skates using this technique and some others...my skates are too narrow across the ball of my foot. The running community has some good lacing solutions, don't be afraid to play around with them. You might find something that works. Just remember your skates do need to be tight for the two eyelets under the hook, then I do a surgeons knot to keep the laces tight before I lace up the hooks.
Good.luck, and welcome to the forums!!!
Being tight there keeps your heel in place.
For a lot of us, boots and blades have been a learning experience.
FWIIW, many people advocate Jackson and Harlick for wide toes. Mine are too wide for stock Riedell boots.
And remember in the future that you can order seperate width sizing for heel, midfoot and toes. But you have what you have for now.
If you need to stretch your toebox more, ask your pro shop if they can do it. If not, you can do it yourself with a ball-and-ring pliers. Either way, the toebox won't stretch much.
BTW, not all Eclipse and Ultima blades are junky. Astra is a fairly low end model.
Yes, you should always wipe your blades, mounting plate and screws dry after skating, and before you put them in the blade guards. If you can, store them in the open, not in the blade guards. If rust is a major problem because you (or your pro shop) keep your boots in a high humidity environment, you could also oil them between uses.
For more rust resistance, don't just pick stainless steel screws - pick marine grade stainless steel screws, though they cost more. OTOH, if you don't take proper care of your blades, any steel, even marine grade stainless steel, will rust. Pattern 99 blades rust fairly easily too, because they are made of high carbon steel, which is not rust-resistant - so take good care.
I've had stainless steel screws rust on skates, despite careful drying - though I used those skates and screws for many years.
I conclude that some "stainless" steels are not very rust-proof.
I don't think complete immersion in still tap water is the fastest rust producer. Not much disolved oxygen, or other corrosive disolved chemicals.
Admittedly, the most rust-resistant marine grade steel alloys, like 316, aren't very strong. And admittedly, Ultima Matrix and some Paramount blade runners have just been made of 440C, which is not a marine grade stainless. (Some of the cheaper ones are made of 430...) My Matrix I blades don't rust much if I take proper care...
So maybe I waste a little money buying marine grade stainless screws - but I hate dealing with rust - which can easily spread if it touches other things made of steel. But maybe you are right, and it is overkill.
Great review! If money is not a consideration, I don't think as an adult it's possible to over-blade, unlike boots. I also wish I switched to a high end blade sooner. To avoid rusting on the screws, make sure to dry the plate too when you take them off. Also, it's not common for adults to land doubles in any country. Other countries may have a lot more skaters and coaches which makes it more likely to see some, but it is still very rare. Enjoy your new boots!
Often the screws that come with even pricey blades these days are pretty junky. If you want to avoid rusty screws entirely, swap out the screws supplied by the blade manufacturer and use stainless steel screws. This advice does not apply to Edea boots that require custom Edea screws.
But, even with stainless steel screws, it's still a good idea to dry the boot and blade thoroughly to avoid wet rot of the sole and heel. Also, I've found that many skaters (including advanced skaters and coaches) never check the tightness of their screws. Loose screws are a hazard in themselves, but they also allow more water to penetrate into the screw holes.
Wow, nice review!
If the skates still hurt, can you have them heat molded? Or if they're not heat moldable, have them stretched in the places that hurt? If they're not heat moldable any old cobbler should be able to stretch them. The heat molding needs to be done at the shop.
Oh, and late teens isn't that old! Many adult skaters start much older than you. Doubles should be attainable if you work hard enough.
Good luck with the progress!
If you are having arch pain, then try placing different types of support materials underneath of your insole until it feels comfortable. I take my daughter to the rink with scissors, double sided tape, different thicknesses and types of foam, a few drugstore arch support products, thin layers of cork and some sand paper. We cut and try different combinations of materials under her arch and heel areas until they feel comfortable. We sometimes have to repeat this process once in a while, which I think is due to materials compressing or her boots softening. We go to a public skate session because it costs less money and she doesn't plan on practicing, we just take her boots on an off and test different combinations. It is amazing how tiny differences feel vastly different to her feet and balance.
Agreed with DressmakingMomma. If your arches hurt, you most likely need some kind of arch support, be it layers of foam, a pre-made support like this, or something else. It's a process, but makes such a difference when you get the right support.
If that doesn't solve the problem, it's possible the boots are also too shallow for your instep. I found that to be the case with my Riedell 229's. You can alleviate it somewhat with different lacing like this (I don't lace across on the third and fourth eyelets from the top in my current Jacksons).
By the way, the Riedell website states that there are three options for purchasing the 255 boots: (1) boots alone, (2) boots pre-mounted with Astra, or (3) boots pre-mounted with Cosmos. Looks like your dealer stocked only boots pre-mounted with Astra and steered you that way.