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71
The Pro Shop / Re: Edea soles - removing / reinstalling blades
« Last post by Bill_S on February 21, 2024, 08:22:47 AM »
Once screws are placed in the "permanent mounting holes", then it's easy to remove then replace the blades without changing their position on the sole.

However, removing then replacing screws that often in soles, whether plastic or leather, is fraught with peril. One small over-tighten slip can strip the threads in the sole. That leads to a lot of work to get back on the ice. Over time, the threads themselves will weaken too. Removing/replacing screws every 20 hours would make me nervous.
72
The Pro Shop / Re: Edea soles - removing / reinstalling blades
« Last post by Query on February 21, 2024, 05:46:36 AM »
I ask because I have considered shipping my skates for sharpening, but didn't think I could remove then reinstall the blades, because of the questions above, and obviously I know with other brands such as Risport that have leather soles, it wouldn't be possible to remove the blades more than once or twice.

Some of us have removed blades more than once or twice on leather soles. You try to be very careful not to strip the hole's threads, by overtightening. If you do strip them, you need to fill the hole with something first, like a wooden dowel, or a strip of leather, or "Shoe Goo" - though Shoe Goo takes a few days to set.

It is quite possible to do it wrong. Which is one of the reasons why many people use good experienced techs - but I assume you want to mail your blades because you don't have such a tech.

But Edea soles may be very different, because of the material, and because they are thin.

Edea sells these plugs, which might help if the holes are too loose - but I have no Edea skates, and can't be sure. Edea says they are intended for different model blades with different position holes. It doesn't mention re-using the same blade and holes. I just found a post in another forum that mentioned using glue with the plugs, but it didn't give detailed directions.

If no one else knows better here, perhaps you can contact Edea for suggestions?

Some people have two pairs of boots & blades, so they can mail one pair at a time to be sharpened.
73
The Pro Shop / Re: Pro-Filer Redirects to Wissota
« Last post by Query on February 21, 2024, 05:21:41 AM »
My old Matrix I Dance blades don't have the same measurements as my Matrix 1 Supreme runners. They are substantially less tall, and they lack the indented portion - the sides of the Dance runners are parallel. Hard to take accurate measurements without mounting them - which I don't want to do, because it wears out the hex key holes in those soft bolts. Anyway, all my runners are at least somewhat used, so the measurements don't reflect what they were like new.

I also notice the Supreme runners (of which I only have one pair) have had enough metal removed that they will soon be hard to sharpen with my Pro-Filer, because of that indented portion, which will probably make them flop around - unless I add tape to create a tighter fit at the bottom, so the top doesn't matter. Which, as we've discussed before is a bit of a hassle and a challenge to do right, so that the edges are even.

74
The Pro Shop / Re: Pro-Filer Redirects to Wissota
« Last post by tstop4me on February 21, 2024, 05:03:42 AM »
Query, thanks for the info on the Matrix I.
75
The Pro Shop / Edea soles - removing / reinstalling blades
« Last post by Christy on February 20, 2024, 11:04:24 PM »
I was talking to someone who tells me that they remove their blades from their Edea boots every 20 hours and ship them to their skate tech for sharpening, then they reinstall them. They said they'd done it for a few years and never had problems but it did make me wonder:

How many times can you reuse the same screw holes in the Edea soles before they start to enlarge?
If you remove then reinstall blades into the same holes will the blades always be in the same position or could they be reinstalled at slightly different angles each time?

I ask because I have considered shipping my skates for sharpening, but didn't think I could remove then reinstall the blades, because of the questions above, and obviously I know with other brands such as Risport that have leather soles, it wouldn't be possible to remove the blades more than once or twice.
76
The Pro Shop / Re: Location of blade on sole
« Last post by Christy on February 20, 2024, 10:58:05 PM »
Have to say I'm a bit confused by some of the responses as the thread seems to have got a bit off track.

I was thinking that moving the blade back would help to ensure the rocker is in the correct position under the foot, and that is the main reason why it could be beneficial? I suppose it does mean the toe pick location relative to the foot changes too, but not sure that has as much impact as the the rocker location?
77
The Pro Shop / Re: Pro-Filer Redirects to Wissota
« Last post by Query on February 20, 2024, 05:27:50 PM »
No need for calipers.  A ruler will do.  Thanks.

With my current blades ("Supremes" - freestyle blades) installed, there is about 1/8" height of thinly ground blade at the bottom (in the orientation we skate in; also maybe it was lightly larger when I started using the blades)), followed by about 1/8" indented  portion (Why? I assume it is decorative, or to save a few grams, but if the Pro-Filer like tool didn't have a deep enough gap, it would matter.), followed by a variable width of parallel sided runner, for a total (including the two 1/8" heights) of about 1/2" near the stanchions, to .75" at the center.


Hey, I just figured something out about the new replaceable runner Matrix RXS blades.

I already knew they made each chassis have one particular non-replaceable toe pick - which means you need a different chassis for each type of blade - whereas the older designs had the same chassis for all runners. The toe picks were included in the runners, as with most blades.

But that non-replaceable toe pick also means you wouldn't want to trim the toe pick when the blade starts to wear down. So you maybe  have to replace runners more often...

Interestingly, the RXS ad says you don't need a special blade holder - because the runners fit all machines. But to take advantage of that, I guess you'd have to remove the runner every time you sharpened it. And it looks like they still attach with those stupid bolts that use the tiny hex inset, that will probably wear out if you do that a lot.
78
The Pro Shop / Re: Pro-Filer Redirects to Wissota
« Last post by tstop4me on February 19, 2024, 09:05:54 PM »
No need for calipers.  A ruler will do.  Thanks.
79
The Pro Shop / Re: Pro-Filer Redirects to Wissota
« Last post by Query on February 19, 2024, 06:14:03 PM »
Oh. You mean what I think of as the height of the exposed portion of the runner...

In other words, the height (vertical dimension when blade is placed on the ice) of the portion of the runner that has to fit in the gap.

I've got to dig my calipers out of storage.
80
The Pro Shop / Re: Pro-Filer Redirects to Wissota
« Last post by tstop4me on February 19, 2024, 05:23:47 PM »
I will later take measurements of the thickness of my old Matrix I blades. Near the bottom of the blades, they were ground a little thinner than the rest of the runner - and in a way that pre-scratched them there - which I don't understand since they were Stainless 440 (440C??) alloy blades. It's hard to tell if any additional scratches I create could possibly matter. But measurements of the old Matrix I blades won't do anyone much good - people bought out Jackson Ultima's remaining stock rather quickly (I think a few weeks or less) after they stopped making them, and it's very hard to find them or the chassis for sale over the Internet.

I realize that the Matrix I blades have been discontinued many years now.  My question concerns the width, not the thickness, of the runner. To avoid ambiguity, what I mean by the width is shown in the attached pix (Paramount blade in this instance).  If you are able to use the Pro-Filer as is, the width of the Matrix I runner must be much greater than the width of the current Matrix runners; so I'm curious as to what it is.  The width will likely vary along the length of the blade.  A typical value near the middle will do.  Thanks.
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