In the U.S., 3M brand Scotch transparent tape[/quote], the best known brand, is about $1 or less, at almost any department store, or online. Is there really nothing similar in Germany? It's slippery enough not to scratch the blade significantly, despite my snug fit, and wider than the Pro-Filer gap depth.

I now feel that it is much better to apply the tape to the tool (stuck to the inside of the gap) than to the blade - as I suggested above. It's easier to align the tape with the bottom of the gap, because it touches the stone, than to the blade. I simply fold the excess across the top of the tool. After applying it to both sides, so the blade is snug enough to stick in the gap a bit, I make the tape stick better by inserting the blade, and then press it hard to each side.

This is much faster than carefully trying to align tape to the edge of the blade. The tape stays on for many sharpenings. It makes the tool itself look less pretty, but I don't care.

Being that snug means there is no side to side motion of the blade within the tool - so it makes a clean edge, not bent over at all anywhere (assuming you reverse the tool every few strokes), or needing any straightening (at least when using the coarse stone) with a flat stone or steel.

This way the entire sharpening operation only take a few minutes at most. I hadn't thought of this method when I started posting here about Pro-Filer, about 20 years ago, but I now think it best. I will never go back to sharpening at a pro shop, nor use a power tool.

Ah, yes, the pesky tape problem.  See my recommendation here:  https://skatingforums.com/index.php?topic=6837.0  Reply#18.

Thanks Tstop.  I decided to do a sharpening today and forget the tape.  I’m not sensitive and decided to just deal with the scratching, because it’s hard to find decent tape where I am. 

The edges feel so much sharper after!  I usually go a really long time between traditional sharpenings, but I guess it makes sense to use the Profiler more often.  In any case it’s always nice before a competition.  Let’s see if the the weird, sticky, hard ice feels any better today?

Query, I used the Profiler on the blades of my old pair and was happy.  I just need to tally up my skating hours and see if it isn’t a bit early to bother.  I did have a difficult time finding tape that worked well.  The crappy stuff I had on hand made it jam up annoyingly. 

About 15 years ago, one of the male coaches here would switch back and forth between figure skates and hockey skates when he taught. He was a junior-level pairs skater who had competed nationally in the past.

For grins, he'd sometimes do a spin wearing his hockey skates in a freestyle session. I guess that if you have talent, anything is possible.

The Pro-filer isn't so hard to use!

Record the profile, taking special note of the sweet spot, if you haven't already. Feel for edge sharpness and alignmnet by drawing your finger lightly across the blade edges. If the edge tip has been pushed to the inside or outside, just push it vertical with your flat stone, and you are probably done.

Otherwise continue:

If you have both coarse and fine grain stones, use the coarse stone, because it is faster and easier. The blades should fit in the Pro-filer snugly - even stick a little. If not, add equal layers of tape (I use thin, slippery scotch transparent tape) to each side, to make sharpening consistent. Cut tape away in the center notch, so you can turn the stone after every sharpening.

Take a slow stroke with the profiler - I prefer to hold it with the blade up. See if the grind isn't centered, add layer(s) of tape, resting on at the base of the stone, inside the gap, so it sticks to the gap.

Take a few more slow strokes, from the toe pick to the back. Reverse the Pro-Filer orientation, and take a few more stow strokes, from back to pick, but don't ride over the toe pick, unless you want to trim it.

Turn the stone a little.

Test for sharpness and edge alignment again. That's it, if it is already somewhat sharp. A few minutes at most. If not sharp yet, repeat until done.

No steel filings or abrasive dust will come off, or stick to the stone or blade, unlike Kaitsu's 3D printed sharpener using sandpaper - because you mostly reshape rather than grind away steel.

With the fine grain stone, you also need to push the (foil) edge vertical, perhaps with the flat stone. But as I suggested, skip that stone for now - most skaters don't like ultra-sharp edges anyway.