The Jackson Ultima Matrix blades are stainless steel, but all the Wilson blades I've seen are not, so they rust more easily. (But I've not looked at the high end (Revolution) Wilson blades. It's possible they have done something to reduce rust.) But if you take good very care of your blades, rust probably won't be an issue.
But I've used neither of the models you are talking about, and am not good enough.
In general, Jackson Ultima blades, including Matrix blades, have tended to have less roll distance between the sweet spot (point up front at which rocker curvature changes) and the toe pick than the MK and Wilson blades I've seen, so you need more precise control. It took me a long time to make that transition - but maybe a better and/or younger skater could make it more quickly. Also, most of the Wilson blades have two sweet spots up front rather than one - if you are used to that, maybe you prefer it.
Finally, Gold Seal blades are tapered side-honed (non-uniform thickness), which means a less-than-world-class sharpener may mess them up in several ways more easily than flat parallel-side blades like the Ultima blades. Of course, some people prefer tapered, side-honed blades. (You can order them parabolic cut instead of tapered, BTW.)
(Tapered to Wilson means they are thicker in the back; side-honed usually means they are thicker at the bottom, like a dovetail routered piece, though the variation only applies to the bottom of the blade, where the chrome plating has been ground away. That presents a lot of challenges,to the sharpener regarding alignment, consistency down the blade, edge even-ness, etc. Your average sharpener trained mostly on hockey skates isn't used to that, and even most figure skate sharpeners aren't aware of the problems, and sometimes make mistakes. They may need to buy and spend time using unusual tools like micrometers or high precision calipers, as well as a tool that measures the normally right angle across the edges against the part of the sides of the blade (higher up) that has NOT been ground off to create non-uniform thickness, and they need to verify that thickness and edge angles of the blade varies in the correct and consistent fashion, because the blade gets thinner as you grind off more metal - if they take off more in one place than another along the length, you end up with a wavy inconsistent thickness and edge angle pattern. Even for those of us that sharpen our own blades, on the hand-held sharpeners that have a gap that the blade sticks through to touch the sharpening stone, like Pro-Filer sharpeners, I think you may need to work harder at getting things right, because the gap size has to adapt to the thickness of the blade at each point, which would be hard with Pro-Filer - I've never tried to sharpen such blades. All in all, unless you really like tapering or parabolic cut and side-honing, it seems like a lot of trouble, but Wilson claims it is wonderful - in particular that tapered blades are faster, parabolic blades "center" better, and side honed blades have sharper edges at any given ROH.)