Any Sewers? Tips for applique with stretch material needed.

[DressmakingMomma]

I've managed to figure out most of what I need to produce a pretty skating dress for my daughter, but appliques give me fits of trouble. Dress construction, pattern drafting, dip dying skirts, stoning & beading are all no problem - but I just can't seem to add an applique without it puckering up. I sew on a 30 year old Bernina, which runs like clockwork and holds a consistent tension but doesn't have much in the way of extras. I'm contemplating adding a walking foot - would it be worth the $100? I have tried hooping before sewing and that helps but some fabrics, like velvet, can't be hooped without marring. I've also tried the iron on/tear off stabilizer that was supposed to peel off afterwards. Again, helped but was a bear to get off the fabric later and still wasn't perfect. Sewing with tissue paper underneath just jams up my machine and makes a big old mess out of the bobbin thread.

Does anybody have any tips, links to tutorials, or instruction books? I haven't managed to find something that works with my machine yet. I know it's possible to sew stretchy appliques and have them lay nice and flat because I see it all over the internet. Thanks in advance for any help, I'm really struggling with some flowers right now. Fortunately the puckers sort of disappear when it's stretched from being worn, but I really want to master this technique.

[accordion]

I use baking paper (also called parchment paper) underneath my fabric when I applique. I find basting the pieces rather than using pins helps a lot. My machine has a walking foot built in and I LOVE it. I use it almost constantly. I would spend the money and use it for usual sewing.

http://sewskateread.blogspot.com.au/   is a blogger who roller skates and sews her own costumes. She has an encyclopaedic  knowledge and wrote some tutorials on costumes last year. There is also  http://leavenostoneunglued.com/ Another roller lady who sews costumes for a living and coaches too.

[DressmakingMomma]

Thanks so much! I'll start with those links and will start looking for a walking foot. When you baste, do you stitch along the edges or do you go across the centers of the appliques. I have so much shifting going on, and I find I fight my lower feed dog going around corners?

[xoxo_tw]

Are you trying to sew 2 layers of stretch fabric together ?  or are you attaching a stretch fabric to a wooven ?

Anyway, it will be more difficult on a regular machine.  You should get an Overlock machine (serger). makes your life more easy ^_^

If you only have a regular machine,  you would want to use the longest stitch size and be sure to stretch the fabric as much as possible while sewing. 
 If the machine can do elestic stitches you could try that setting too.

[CaraSkates]

Are you trying to sew 2 layers of stretch fabric together ?  or are you attaching a stretch fabric to a wooven ?

Anyway, it will be more difficult on a regular machine.  You should get an Overlock machine (serger). makes your life more easy ^_^

If you only have a regular machine,  you would want to use the longest stitch size and be sure to stretch the fabric as much as possible while sewing. 
 If the machine can do elestic stitches you could try that setting too.

You can't do applique work on a serger/overlock.....

I make skating dresses for a living so I do a lot of applique with spandex - I also sew on two 30yo Berninas. I do have a walking foot but prefer to use an open toe applique foot and a small zigzag stitch. I do not stretch the fabric as I sew it. I usually just pin my applique in place, sometimes I use spray adhesive or small dots of washable glue. If your machine has an extension table so the fabric can stay flat while you sew, that makes a work of difference.

I attached a photo of a flame applique I just did on a sleeve...this is stretch mesh appliqued onto a medium weight lycra. This was pinned only.

[DressmakingMomma]

xoxo, I have a serger but find I prefer the control the sewing machine offers over the serger. Plus, I feel like the stretch stitch on my machine is stronger and less likely to pop then the serger stitching. I use the serger when I'm sewing something quick and functional - like a bag or when I want to finish off edges if a garment isn't going to be lined, which is never the case with my skating dresses - those I always line. The serger comes in handy but if I had to choose one, my sewing machine wins hands down.

Thanks CaraSkates, a new foot is a cheap fix so I'll give that a try first. I don't have an extension table either and that makes much of my sewing harder then it needs to be - it is on the list to purchase once I sell a few dresses. I've been in a spend more money, buy more fabric without selling anything trend that my hubby is understandably not too happy about. The original plan was to make a dress for my daughter and then a couple of extras to sell on ebay in order to pay for the materials and such.

That flame is beautiful! That's what I aspire to be able to produce. I just finished up mesh over spandex flower appliques stitched down to a velvet bodice. It looks fine when on because everything sort of stretches out but I am a perfectionist when it comes to sewing and want the appliques to lay flat on the hanger also.

[Loops]

This is brilliant, thanks for starting this thread.

I have nothing to add re: appliqués, but will say that I forked over for a walking foot (for my Bernina ;-)).  I will say that it was one of the best $100ish I spent.  I find myself reaching for it far more frequently than I ever expected too.  So my guess is you won't regret purchasing one.

Would love to see photos of your dresses when you get them done- some of my friends (adult skaters) have recently been mining US ebay.  They may have already bought (upcoming competition) but if you're willing to ship to France, then it'd be good to have you on radar.   Well priced dresses are difficult to come by over here!