Since you have an engineering background, does the rough surface between the threads serve a purpose (e.g., does it increase friction), or is that a production artifact? Or is it your belief that is mostly due to corrosion? Except that the pictures of new screws in the catalog have a similar surface texture.
When I look at most metal screws, they seem mirror-smooth.
BTW I previously contacted various people about these boots and screws, along the lines of.
I have an old pair of hardly used Graf Edmonton Specials. It was made with leather soles and heels, but like modern boots, were marked \"Made in Switzerland\". I had one heel separate, after very little low end use. I thought that was because I hadn't used long enough screws, that didn't reach to the outsole in the back. But maybe it was (also) because I used the wrong thread type screw. I wanted countersink screws to fit the countersunk holes of my Ultima Matrix I blades. The catalog shows modern Graf Edmonton Specials, with the synthetic heels, with relatively short heel screws. They say to use Graf figure screws, which appear to be non-countersunk HiLo (double helix thread) blunt end screws. I've glued the heels back together, and want to figure out what type of screw to use to mount blades that have countersunk holes. Whatever they might have came with, I switched to normal (single helix thread) countersink screws, because I used them with Ultima Matrix I skates, that had countersunk holes. Should the older Edmonton Specials, with leather soles and heels, also use modern Graf figure screws? Or perhaps it would be better to use longer length HiLo blunt end screws, so they penetrates into the outsoles to better hold the heels together? Do you have any recommendations? And do you sell the type of screw you recommend?
Matej Silecky (from GrafSkates.ch) wrote
Thank you for your email and for your explanation.
Given that the boots are older, do you remember where and when you got the boots? This will help me better understand the boots and their status.
As far as the screws, there is a difference between the current boots and older Edmonton Specials, so please know that your screws will be different than the recommended ones today.
The recommendation would be to use the screws that come with your particular blade as every blade has a different setup or sunken or non-sunken holes on the mounting plate.
Let me know about the where and when you purchased and received the boots, and I will assist more if I can. If you have a photo of the heel, that will help.
Matej Silecky - USA Country Manager
>John Harmatta Geppetto's Skate Shop wrote
1. We do not sell Graf boots and have none of the special screws for them.
2. If the heel of the boot is separating from the sole I would not use them even if they were glued back together again. It is only a matter of time before they come apart again. Perhaps there was a defect when manufacturing them or they just rotted away from old age no matter how used they may be. Again, I would not use them.
3. We seal all boots with leather soles and heels before mounting with an industrial-grade polyurethane. This keeps the water out, preventing damage to the soles and heels. It sounds to me like the boots were never sealed which allowed water damage to take its course over time.
4. We use standard screws in leather soles and heels. The length for the heels is either 3/4" or 1". Both flat head and pan head are used. In the soles, we use 1/2".
Lizeth Navia, Office Manager, Fairfax Ice Arena Pro Shop, offered to give me a few.
For the present, I haven't done anything more with these boots. Harmata's comments make me a bit skitish about using the boots again. It's not like they are ideal for me in any event.
However, I did meet someone once who had similar Graf boots with the same separating heel problem. He drilled the holes all the way through, and bolted the heels together, using, if I recall correctly, washers to help hold things together, and was happy with that solution.
Topic: Graf screws and outsoles (Read 1876 times)