So I've been here for a few weeks now and I thought I'd update
I'm in the city of Pohang, and there's a rink here. Like most recreational rinks in Korea, the center part is reserved for lessons, while the outer part is for the general public. The inner part is shared between figure skaters and speed skaters though, which means there is little space for practicing stroking (because the speed skaters tend to get the outermost part of the practice space, in addition to a part of the center).
However, you *CANNOT* practice figure skating on the outer circle, especially during busy times (usually, school breaks). Most Koreans can skate without falling, so there's usually a continuous flow of skaters there. And a coach also told you're not really supposed to practice there, because toe jumps ruin the ice, and that's dangerous for recreational skaters.
Which means, if you're going to practice here, you *have* to take lessons.
In my rink, there are only two figure skating coaches. Since the first coach I approached was fully booked, I got the second coach, who speaks no English at all. So we're communicating mainly by body language. So far, it works.
Interestingly, figure skating in Korea is heavy on spins, less heavy on jumps, and even less heavy on skating skills. I just do basic edges, backward stroking, backward edges on ice and people look at me like I'm some good skater.
I was able to attend a group class here, and though they really could spin even at the lower levels, their skating skills are below par for their level, compared to, say, a skater trained in the Western curriculum.
Can you believe that for my first lesson, my coach wanted me to do a scratch spin?
And I couldn't even do a basic one-foot-spin! And she didn't ask me to do any edges at all, just forward and backward crossovers.
The cost is also reasonable -- I paid KRW130,000 for four 30-minute lessons, including ice time.