Mine when I got blades mounted on, it was sorta like rubber cement used as a buffer. You don't need ALL the screws drilled in, but you should have at least two screws for adjustment screwed in on top, and 2 screws for holding the blade on (the adjustment ones are usually screws that stick out, and the stationary screws are usually flat with the blade.) Bottom I think mine only have one adjustment screw done (out of 2) and I think both stationary screws. It might be different and I'm too lazy to bring my skates upstairs, but this is how I remember it. The problem with using all the holes comes from if you ever switch blades, there's a bunch of holes that need to be patched up.
The toepick you'll have to get used to, just remember to stay back, and stand up straight. Don't try leaning forward. Forward lean+figure skates=no good. If you have terrible posture without skating, then skating will be sure to get it better.
Try lacing up only the first hook, not the other 3-4 (well my Edeas have only 3, but most boots I see have more.) Then you'll be able to move your ankle forwards. You should be able to put at least 2 fingers in between your calf and boot when it's laced up. Eventually you'll lace up all the way after the boots are really broken in.
For the blades, lastly, you might want to keep track of the radius they're getting sharpened at. I personally don't do well with a really deep hollow on the bottom of my skate. It makes it very grabby. It also makes it feel like you're getting "whipped" around more when trying to do stuff. Basically, deeper the hollow, the more you'll "stick" in the ice, and the faster your stops and stuff will be. The shallower, the more glide you'll get, stops will be slower. It's a really personal thing, some people really love a deep hollow, others like it more shallow. Generally lower bodyweight means deeper hollow and vice versa.
And yes, break in time and getting used to the boots.
Topic: What to expect with brand new skates? (Read 5604 times)